Dr Dean

Dan unfortunatly you probably won't be able to change to 120V however you don't need much of a motor to run that size of a blower. 1/6 HP would be plenty. Here's a link to surplus center https://www.surpluscenter.com/ Look around a bit I could be a poor man there.

I built my own anvil and I probably wouldn't do it agan. It took about 80 hours, 60+ pounds of rod and killed 1 angle grinder. Total weight is about 230 pounds and is a really nice hunk of iron to work on however i didn't make a horn on it.

Jr, the way I see it is that two people may do something exactly the same but describe the process diffrently. I may understand what you mean but not the way Joe Somebody explained the exact same thing. I havent seen the sceneraio that I just described but if it happens no problem from where I sit.

I have a few things in the works but because the recipents know where I lurk, pictures will be posted later.

Skei coal and salt 639 Lincoln way Ames IA 50010 (515)232-4474 It's a steel quonset type building right next to the railroad behind a resturant.

Fingers don't grow back!

I was told by our mail carrier that the post had to be break away incase something hit it. If it wasn't I could face federal charges. The very next day my golden oppurtunity came in, International 856 with a bad crank, and I happened to have a junk flywheel sitting under my bench. The following Saturday morning I placed my new mailbox post and waited for my mail carrier to show up. He came to the house to warn me about the breakaway thing agian, so we walked back to the mail box. You should have seen the look on his face whe he realized that it was just sitting on a concrete paver. He thought I had set it in the ground because he couldn't move it. Now if someone decides to run it over the damages are thier problem.

Stonetrooper, I've got several engines but the shaft is horizontal,sorry . My biggest problem with having 6 acres to take care of is that people keep trying to give me goats. They just don't seem to understand when I tell them that thier beloved little precious pet goat will end up as a blood spatter when I catch it on top of my truck! We have cattle, one is about ready to go to the freezer, one is a yearling and two are month old bucket calves. It takes about 1.5 acres of grass for a cow calf pair. Sheep pull the grass out by the root because of the way thier jaw is shaped. Cattle chew off the grass. now for the winter problem, does anyone raise corn around you and mind having the stalks grazed?

Actually in the DOT reg book for commercial vehicles you are allowed to run without a muffler as long as the engine has a turbocharger. I personally prefer my exhaust quiet. One of my friends has one of the import Harley look alikes I had to laugh when he told me it had everything a Harley had but two things. An oil leak and a kick starter! :D

BT is right! I've got two in my shop and use them several times a year on my old manure spreader.

Thomas do you have any idea what brand that is? Mine is the exact same also but I havent had any luck getting an ID figured out. My blower doesn't even have any Id marks.

Don't worry about the dog here. Watch out for the raccoon though!

Boy it's a good thing that I'm also a farmer! Bailing wire, whatever's handy heck I've even used barbed wire out in the middle of a field to patch up holes in combines.

Larry here Is the website that I've been looking for. If you need quality work... The fellow who did all this is Known as Engloid. Another good place to look around Is the other website I frequent. Shop Floor Talk Have fun and keep on burnin the wire. If you ever get in my neck of the woods stop by!

Got to thinking of this thread and had to post what my 10YO daughter did tonight with some guidance.

Larry in all honesty I prefer to teach the way I learned. Start with oxy/acetlene then move to stick. After you are compentent with both then running wire feed is a walk in the park. You'll know you got it figured out when the slag peels off by itself.

Hi Larry, if you don't mind may I critique, if you do please disregard. Looking at the 4th picture, not too bad but yes there is room for improvement. Looks like your heat and wire speed is pretty close. Practice consistant travel speed. That is what gave you the fat then skinny weld bead. A couple of things to watch for on surface appearance is undercutting and poor fusion at the edges of the weld bead. Another thing is evenly spaced ripples in the weld bead that look like this ( not this < the first is proper heat and travel speed. This < is fast travel speed don't do that. Another item that causes heated debate is making your weld bead look like a stack of dimes rather than smooth evenly deposited filler material. I personally prefer not wasting time making the stack of dimes and I think that it makes for a weld bead with less stress points. I'll try to find some pics from some people I hold in very high regard.

I believe that arc gouge is also known as air arc or carbon arc gouging. It takes alot of air and power to do anything of much thickness. Here's a link that explain the process. Fundamentals of Professional Welding

A leg vise that I bought from Sid at the Little Giant hammer in. Screw box was siezed and there was no mounting hardware. I got the screw loose and tightened up the rivet for the side plates on the lower pivot. The sad part is that I spent more on the stand than the vise.

Ok here are some pics that I just took. The first 2 are of my forge, it just sits on the cart. Next weekend the forge hood build begins. I had started on one with some stainless but it started to look way too much like a hood for a Farmall M and I decided that I' rather work with new material. The third one is my homemade Anvil. I havent wrestled it onto the scale yet but I'm guessing it's around 200 Lbs. The last one is my leg vise the upright pipe is 5" and filled with sand for weight. I picked the vise up at the little giant hammer in this winter. Please don't nail me on my lack of guards on the grinder in pic 1 it's not in use until I get guards and tool rests built I have another little one that I use.

Tig I use 100% argon MIG mild steel and general work is 100% CO2, it's cheaper and you can work easier with less than perfect materials, rust. Mig stainless is tri mix CO2, argon, and helium. Mig Aluminum is argon only. Most of my work is with the stick welder because I can go anywhere wind, rain, hot, or cold.

Amen Winton! I work on the red ones so we may be under one big parent company, unless you work for cat. Where in the world are you located at? Irnsrgn is right on the money about reflighting augers.

Jr your mouse story brings to mind one told at our shop. Apparently a couple of individuals that no longer work there thought it was a good idea to light up a mouse with wd-40. Other than it not being a swift kill the other reason it's a bad idea is that mice generally know how to hide even when on fire. The mouse ran into the wall, steel siding on the inside. Obviously they had to go after the mouse so tin started coming off the wall. About this time the owner came through the shop, all he said was I don't want to know and kept walking. The story ends with the singed mouse being captured and no damage other than time wasted for thier stupidity.

The term you are looking for is a nut driver. Sears sells them here in the states. Interesting idea let us know how it turns out.

I made my forge portable by using an old cart for folding chairs. I cut it down to fit the legs of my forge, needed to be shorter and wider. My anvil is homemade and I have it welded to a 4" square tube that is welded to an old tractor flywheel. My leg vise is also mounted to a stand made on top of a flywheel but that needs to be a larger diameter base, enough weight but kinda tippy. To move the anvil and the vise I just use a cheap 2 wheel cart. I don't have any pictures now but I could take some tomorrow if you would like.