MOONY

 nice job  i like  punch an rivits 

 ye    they make a ok post anvil ,   i rather re point them an send them back to work ,  and re point them again in a few moths  , and over again  you get about 180 dollars to re point eazy money 

 hi hope the hammer in is a good time for all   from 

 moony

get hammered should be on again  the last weekend in october, if phill dose not have any thing planed ,LOL   we had about  20 last year it was a good time had by all ,
  another anvil  was started to be forged ,  it now is about  finished  the  base has to be attached  and hardie hole an pritchel hole made then hardened   so it happening  but slow 
  well if you are interested is coming to 2014  get hammered let us know by private message in iforge iron 
 moony

 hi all i might get up i not sure , it has  been a tough year ,  and i have  just won a few jobs an i should put my efforts into  the pay work , but i might get up just as a day tripper    but if not have a good and safe time  no hurts  , 

 moony 

hello all  yes this is glenn moon  here  yes it good to see more hitting away  ,   i have a hammer in the last weekend of october  all welcome  and   i am starting to have classes i will be advertizing at mg industrial supplies  fishwik  

   or contact through here by  sending a private message

  moony  

hi Johnnie
For all my advice is worth, i own a ww greener single barrel full Damascus [pattern welded] when i purchased it it was a rusty old pipe on a nice timber stock , i used the fines brasso polish and some cooking oil in my hand, that i had in a soft cotton cloth glove ,i polished it for many a hour till all the rust was removes , after cleaning the rust on out side, i then pulled a brass brush through the bore count less time with the same brasso and cooking old mix in the bore till it was shining

after all metal had been cleaned i them washed the metal with spray and wipe, kitchen cleaner . to remove the brasso and cooking oil then i pulled gun oil through the bore on cloth,
i then treated the out barrel with ferric chloride to bring back the pattern on the metal then i used bicab soda to neutralise the acid then immediately after the bicab i used gun oil on the out barrel to protect it ,the pattern has a contrast dark and light
it looks like knew
, the timber i just wiped with the same spray and wipe then when clean, i put some Danish oil to protect the timer an then it was complete , i did not want to fire mine ,
but the fools i purchased the ww greener of where firing it with modern ammo, not knowing it was pattern welded barrel

as to firing your gun , i might down load the shells with black powder so as the charge are not to heavy , after you get lt looked at competent gun smith
nice to see the old pattern welds still about
enjoy and think how much effort the persons that welded the metal and the hand working to create these works of art

and if your gun is not a rusty pipe i would just clean it and oil it and that is all that is need to keep the natural patina that life has given this lovely shot gun


i forgot to say my ww greener is dated 1890 , it is open hammer ,with under turn leaver that is also the trigger guard to open the breech
and i would not fire yours shoty ! just look an wonder
moony

 ye as he say 2  lolol

you would love the smell of roasting you lolololl

well i am thinking it look lovely i almost cut the left one off with a old hack saw to get my paws on it
but the single arch 20cwt steamy i got coming will do me just fine as garden sculpture


i say that curved sword like is a link to allow the hammer to self acting as i see not trigger stop , and i say the fellow driving was the shop boy, tea lad, an hammer drivers apprentice , or , go get the sky hook , ,person lolol

i will get a picture in a few days an post it 

  it a link that allow me to stand  flat footed     and use just my front of you foot   u might have a nice section of steel  under your heel  but i donot i stand both feet on ground an the toes do the work    but my hammer is a massey   7cwt 

   you need the foot control sensitive   not heavy   just slight pressure      to make it move,  but i am a heavy weight  130 kg   thats 288lbs about  

i think your 400  has more stroke an power  , but  this 200 it look impressive 

 i had a samuel platt galith it hit like all dickens  ,  only 56 lbs but it could forge  no trouble  3'' bar mild steel harder steel it was a bit slower on but, i sold it  and installed  a 55K G anyang its a ok hammer  you  just have to not let them get real hot or the oil will glaze up the control valves  ,   i flush mine with a bit of diesel    after a few full oil cans go through  

i have a link that comes down to the floor when the hammer is running flat out , an when  the tup is up  the peddle link is only about 1-1/2 ''

of the ground so i can stand on both feet and use my toes to move the hammer peddle    i hate the stork stand    

good to hear all ok again  ,  ye its not always as it thinks it is ,  some times u have to go backwards to get forwards 

well ye phill is correct  never use a cylinder hone    oooooo the stone broke an bit fell down in the tup cylinder  ports    it was a real hassle to get them out

  i managed after many a time   i could not see them only feel it,   i use grease on the end of a wire to stick them an lift it out ,

  and yes after many a hour  like 12 hour no stop , the  bore in the control valve, the oil got a bit glazed and the valve would stick ,open and the hammer would not stop hitting  ,   i was using a thin  air tool oil  but the hammer got  rather hot after the long running , 

   i suggest    every once an a while to run the hammer with diesel  fuel  to flush it out and after  then go back yo the air tool oil  

 and dont run none stop for many hours 

 moony 

ye welded hold on are not so good cant beat tongs  

hi col did making the face hit together help 

 moony

all good   as long as you enjoy it 

and dont tap hard on the edges 

i have a tap measure elf,   the tap measures go missing ,  he hydes them   , so you have dozens of them every where  to keep him confused , same with french chalk .

well to all, it just hammer control and steel moving ,  to get it to happen , and as forgemaster  say,  the un washed need ,  oo  nooo,

  i must be in that class , 

    an as to hardie cut , if you are that bad a hitter ,  you better go collect  postage stamps  ,

  and on the practice till your arm dislocates  please don't   , if you don't get it in 3 goes   try another week or so later    

   but it is possible   but not all can 

hi collin ye  u might try a bit of warming it up     but if all else fail   keep hammering  

 moony 

hi,all   ye if u try it in what is normal mild steel that is a lot of times  a bit tough ,  i use soft steel it the kind used to tie up large bundles of steel , or try wrought iron  or use gp welding rod 6mm
 
 happy hammering

ye i looked in to them it might be the only thing to get Pacific Carbon  ,Thanks Pill 

 but i do get good coking coal a make coke out of it  i put it around the fire wet it cokes up as the day runs  on, but it is a bit dirty you get a bit of clinders 

 moony