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MVisser

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Everything posted by MVisser

  1. Hello fellow basher's I am a bit surprised at two important details of procedure that have not yet been mentioned in the rescue attempts of plain bearing motors. First- when you turn the shaft with one hand as you tighten with the other you will possibly find a point where there is the beginning of stiffness, as soon as you feel this and assuming you kept the tightness's of the bolts sort of even,rap the motor on the side (perpendicular) to the axis of the shaft. Do this on the body of the motor for now, not the end bells. Use the end-grain of a piece of two by four and a hammer, if needed. First try a good blow on the side, as you turn the shaft. Do the tightening in steps, I have found most motors of the size that yours is take about three steps. (I have herein used the word bolts, it does not matter if the motor you have has bolts fixed or loose, within the stator, and therefore nuts are what you are tightening, or the motor has screws for each end bell, you may find the advise still applies, change the words to suit.) During further tightening, binding may well occur again, then use the wood to "fix" the alignment again. What is happening here, in the case of plain bearings, or journal bearings, their proper operation relies on a fairly thin and even coating of oil between the shaft and the bore of the bearing. This oil film is self pressurizing once the motor is spinning, the thickness of the oil film is .001 of an inch, or so. It is easy now to visualize the small misalignment that will cause this film to be squeezed out of existence on one or both ends of the motor. This then causes metal to metal contact, and will therefore make a lot of drag, or even stop rotation altogether. When one raps the side of the motor, it moves away from the force, and so the end bells remain in place. Between the motor body and the end bells there is a certain freedom of radial play in almost every plain bearing motor I have ever seen, and these spaces or allowance is what lets us fine tune a motor. Even a motor with seemingly tight end bells, I have found that I had to rap to "find" the sweet spot. When you are finished, you may have the feeling that the motor could be even a bit more free in rotation, now try a rap on one end bell, or both. Unless otherwise directed, use non-detergent 30 wt oil. At the conclusion of this "massage" the space between the bearings and shaft have equalized at both ends at the same time. You may to try this several times to get a good feel for the process. We have been speaking of plain bearing motors, what about ball bearing motors? These may have enough play between the body and end bells to benefit from this "massage" treatment. The result will probably not be something one can feel as in a reduction of drag, but when you try you may feel and hear something that will guide you. A well aligned motor with ball bearings will probably run noticeably quieter. In regard to the bolts, how tight is enough? Use your best judgment, they do not need to be tightened more than any hardware of that diameter is, weather holding a motor together or almost any similar assembly. Take your time, pretend you are small enough to be in these spaces in your mind's eye. This viewpoint has helped me become a good toolmaker, and more. Yours in building and rebuilding, Michael Visser "Never throw away anything that has value."
  2. Hello fellow basher's, First, the xxxx spellcheck does not have a corrrection for basher's. The main thing is, where the heck was that thing, in the clothes washer? Maybe in the freezer?, my dear ol' dad became famous in our family because he put the kleenex in the freezer as we were putting the groceries away. Mind you, this only happened twice........but we could not let something so boneheaded, and hilarious go unrewarded. From that day on we would say "did ya look in the fre...." any time something was lost. He did loose his keys and wallet in there at least once. I am a year old member, I think this is my second reply, this site is so vast, that one as forgetful as myself should keep a log to know where they have been, and especially which entries they have replied to or not. Actually, I think I may have stumbled on a fine idea for a helpful tool for any forum; a button that would show in some concise, easy, manner which parts of a forum one has been in and/or replied to. The date, topic, number of replies, and other data could be found, regardless of a poor memory. This would also remove the need to search a sometimes sizable portion of the entire forum. This person would initiate this function where and when wanted only, a remember box, to put a check-mark into. **** The name for this is a finger spring washer, at least this is what I've seen them called, I have seen them in most local hardware stores, in the section within "hardware" where the expensive pullout multi bin drawers are. Each box has a dozen or so sizes of these standard parts in a variety of most needed types. This is the place for all those nasty little parts that hold the entire world together, you know the ones...that go flying, rolling, etc. and without them there is no reasonable and lasting way to make anything else do that vital job. For some reason these parts are the ones that make the most seasoned, and careful craftsmen among us, become shaky Freddie Fumbles! A special size- a brass one-stainless steel anyone? Woodruff key- cotter pin- dowel pin- roll pin- any size of set screw- and our SPECIAL SPRING WASHER....I must mention; some motors will not like too much or too little umph, get the right one. For those who need to know, there is a Company in Manhattan that will Supply every kind of hardware you will ever need, usually for less than the "expensive" onezies and twozies department at your local hardware store. Of course you will need to pay shipping, but armed with their catalog I know you can wisely spend enough to stock your shop with goodies that you always wanted anyhow, and get the free shipping in the offing. Yours in building something fine, Michael Visser "The sky is no limit for me."
  3. Hello, fellow iron bashers! This is to all who were involved in this thread, fantastic quests, and answers. This to Anvilflower, first cool handle! Second, Yes.....it may well have a secondary use, and if dried it'l take up less space for when a possible use or experiment comes to mind. Just as I began to navigate through the reply area I noticed someone mentioning plating use, this was my first thought too. With all that copper in it, save it, maybe it can be converted or used in self plating (on iron) as a pre treatment for further copper plating. Cordially, M. Visser
  4. Hello, Jeremy K., I will have to fire up, and bash one out for me, maybe a bunch, for gifts, sales. I am fortunate because of all the nicely figured hardwood "scraps" lying around this wood shop my friend shares with me. I am a natural born toolmaker, yet this elegant solution to the dreaded "wing nut issues" escaped me. I HATE wing nuts, prefer knobs in most cases. I'll bet it will be far easier to re-blade than many of the other designs we have all cursed at one time or another. Cordially, M.V.Email me
  5. Hi, M.V. here again, Creek I forgot to ask, if I may, what kind of metal were you working with the arc at work, mild steel, or cast iron? Were you cutting, gouging, or welding? In case you want to contact me directly, off the forum, my email is; modernmanstudios@gmail.com
  6. Hello, fellow bashers, I was a bit confused when I answered a question on the forum, I had mistakenly thought D.J. hammered was the author I wanted to address, when instead it was creek. I had just joined the forum at that time and didn't know for certain which name to attribute to which entry. Any way...as I explored the forum I found this thread on carbon arc, found this experiment interesting, as I had messed around with a resistance welder (nichrome elements) plugs in the wall, el'cheepo unit. I had ordered the famous unit, advertised on the back of a popular mechanics, or the like. I was about to start 7th-grade, had the summer to teach myself welding. This kind of unit makes the pole trany the power supply, yes you can get a good shock, but with some small care you wont, at least, not too often! The main point here is that I was able to get more heat than I could ever use, simply by changing arc length; longer for more heat. Now, this is surely not for everyone, but for cutting roughly, and texturing, even "rough" welding, it is fast and cheap. Remember, I am using only carbon and the "ground", which is the neutral, for safty's sake, I simply clamp to the "work". If one uses an actual welder supply, they are treading on ground I have not yet tread, regarding carbon arc that is. The resistance welder is to be used with 2- carbons and will allow one to brase, weld, silversolder. After using this thing for a while, I had to "break the rules" and try odd things with it. I tried one carbon, as a "stinger", much the same as with TIG. This, on sheet metal say, up to 1/16-in. or so and smaller. I found that although I could weld with this arangement, the real value, for me, was the rough, drip covered edges I got simply using this rig as a method of cutting. The extreme texture, is exactly the kind of thing for my sculpture. I like to make funky, organic, nonrepresentational forms. If I cut or treat sheared edges this way, I am left with complex roughness which I can control, and saves on oxy/ace. usage. Oxy/ace cutting with an actual cutting torch or "cutting" (melt cut) with a welding tip, is another way I get the look I am after. This can be tedious, and expensive as gas costs are through the roof here. I think I am being gouged. The edges have what looks like sharp edges, without actually being able to cut (people or clothing.) Any edges that are too sharp get a short sanding to fix. Regarding the use of a D.C. source, in my reading I have learned that; in a D.C. arc 90% of the heat is liberated on the positive side. This may be a powerful aid in some work, especially if one is using only one carbon. My computer is ill, I will try not to be absent from this great forum too long.
  7. Hi, Pawel Guba, I am a member as of two days ago, am on a few other forums related to arts, this site and the work seen here is quite impressive, much here is above the class of a high percentage of work seen elsewhere. Great job, good flow, effortless feel, pleasing textures.
  8. Hi, D.J., I am a new mem. of several days, of all the metalwork sites this is the most comprehensive, neatest. I have been exploring this site, going down the list, saw the word ARC, stopped immediately, as arcs and hi voltage phenomena have been a keen interest since I first saw lightning. What you speak of however is not hi volts, rather, hi current, as you probably know. I am sorry I don't have the email for you, but several weeks ago I was exploring another site and saw remarkable work by a fellow, I think Swedish, large, perhaps several hundred pounds slabs, blocks etc. steel and he goes after it with various carbon and if mem. serves oxygen lances. Then leaving the raw cuts, gouges exposed, celebrating that wonderful patina! When and if I find the "links or addresses, even a name, I'll give it to ya. The photos of this mans work surely inspired me. My taste and some work is similar although not heavyweights as his are.
  9. Hello, Ian, If I have it right, you are in England, a place that has inspired me greatly with it's metal working history. My quest is to find an email address, so I may learn more of an object I only once caught glimse of, many years ago. The object is a sphere with decorative piercings and within this ball, a gimbaled candle holder, so when rolled about the castle floor, it will project wonderful patterns on walls, ceiling. What is this called? When first written of? Is this British history? Cordially, Michael Visser
  10. Hello, Celticforge, I enjoyed your poem, to whom should go the credit? Cordially, Michael Visser
  11. Hello, all on this site, I am a new member, and can't find the spellcheck yet, so I'll say; sorry in advance. I am going to take a stab at this topic of blackening steel. I have, as a machinist, needed to blacken items from time to time. The way all the shops I've been in do it is; send it out! However, if one is in a hurry, or had to make up that missing piece of an order, back from the finisher's, we would use Birchwood Casey method, looks fine after a good rinse, dry, rub in some oil, of some sort, mineral, or non detergent -30-/wt., or boiled linseed. This has been quite passable, but to match the work done by a finisher, or ones' work from a different batch of chemicals, if the match is for a critical customer, it may take some re-work. As some of the other posters mentioned this will not stop rust for all time, even indoors, in the summer so, if sweaty hands are in contact with parts, it WILL rust. Some folks are more able to cause rust than others, in any season, I am very rusty! Having said this, there are several ways to seal the surface of the steel. The clear spray (plastic paint/varnish, powdercoat) or boiled linseed oil, makes a skin that is remarkably durable, even outside (may be not at the shore) this will need to be reapplied periodically. Now, for the fun part, I was at a place that was making ingots of PLATINUM as an intermediate step of their process, to keep the non-hardened mild steel molds from "wetting" with the precious metal, they took rolls of card stock dipped in sugar and veg, oil and rubbed the steel as it was being heated enough to make liberal smoke. This made a wonderful deep black that probably has good durability. If, and I can't wait to test it, one would treat a piece this way, let it cool, and rub in on a dried item some boiled linseed oil, I'll bet you that this is the ticket for general duty work. The Birchwood Casey has, even after dry, and washed with soap a toxic smell, this will not fill a room with same odor, but may not be ok. for food or children if contact would be occuring, repeatedly. Cordially, Michael Visser
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