Jump to content
I Forge Iron

yotebuster1200

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    17

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About yotebuster1200

  • Rank
    Junior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Driggs, Idaho
  • Interests
    Family, Hunting, Fishing, Knives, Forging, Beekeeping, Fire, Learning

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. yotebuster1200
    For forging blades an even uniform heat is idea but I think for tool forging direct heat may be best. I haven't messed around for a while. I have bought a few things in preparation of future experimenting but that is about it.
  2. yotebuster1200
    I am glad to see a little progress on the thread. I have been stopping buy every 2-3 weeks to see if I have missed something even though I get notifications when someone posts. Keep up the great work.
  3. yotebuster1200
    ABS has a high tendancy to warp when it cools faster in one area than another. If there is a draft you will end up with warped parts and often prints that have corners pulling away from the print bed. Many people print ABS in an enclosure. If I wanted smoothed castable parts I would most likely set up to do PLA smoothing it seems to be a much better material for burnout. Although i wouldn't be opposed to figuring out the setup for lost wax filaments. Both my printers are direct drive so they probably wouldnt be to tricky to get diled in.
  4. yotebuster1200
    That was kind of the price range I was thinking.
  5. yotebuster1200
    The anvil is a couple hours away. I wanted to gather some initial info before making a trip. The guy was asking 1100 bucks but after I asked him where he came up with that number he said he knew nothing about anvils and just looked at some classified prices. I told him that anvil prices can vary $1-6 per lb based on brand, condition and performance and can go for more if they are extremely sought after anvils. He then said he was open to offers. I told him i wouldnt make an offer until i had some more info. I figgured I would let him know a low end and high end offer before
  6. yotebuster1200 started following 3D printed plastic burner experiments (photo heavy) and Anvil identification with serial number
  7. yotebuster1200
    I am trying to dig up some information on this anvil. To be honest i am not hoping for much because there are no stamps or markes besides what looks like a touch mark on the far left, a weight (150) and a serial number. From the appearance I would say it looks like a forged anvil. The owner hit it lightly with an angle grinder. All the marks on the face make me kind of assume the face is a little soft but that is only a guess. What are your thoughts? Is there any way to identify the maker of this anvil and perhaps the estimated quality before I drive a couple hours to check i
  8. yotebuster1200
    I kind of figgured the difference between the 3d printer jet and mig tips might be the length of the orifice. In the fire fighting industry (and probably other industries) we call that friction loss. You lose pressure the longer a fluid (gas) flows through a tube of a given diameter. The smaller the tube the more friction loss you experience.
  9. yotebuster1200
    So I have been thinking about your jets. You should use some hex main carburetor jets. Yoi can get them anywhere from .6mm mutch past 3.0mm. The best part is they come in about .025mm increments. For instance you can buy a 1mm, 1.02, 1.05, 1.08, 1.1, 1.12, 1.15, 1.18, 1.2. With these jets you should be able to fine tune your burners a little easier. I have ordered a set that goes from .6 - 1mm in .05mm increments and plan on ordering another set that goes from .8- 1.5mm (ish) in .025mm increments. In another post you mentioned that you get a tighter burn with t
  10. yotebuster1200
    I finally got around to resizing the pics. Thanks for the tip Irondragon
  11. yotebuster1200
    Old Crew. It is in fact a 310# forged anvil.
  12. yotebuster1200
    Well, maybe it is forged. To be honest I just read that were cast steel. I honestly thought it looked forged to me. I dont know how I did considering how rare anvils are around here but I paid 1100 for it. Not a steal but probably not to bad.
  13. yotebuster1200
    Well i would say i had some very humble beginnings. I started this hobby with a piece of small cross section railroad track. I cut a length and stood it on end for a post style anvil and cut another 12 inch section for a flat anvil. They worked but there was nothing ideal aboit the setup. I got out of the hobby for a while and recently got interested again. Im my neck of the woods anvils dont come available to purchase very often. I kept my eyes on the regular free classifieds (marketplace and craigslist) and after a year an anvil came available that was in decent shape and
  14. yotebuster1200
    I fixed my profile. Thanks for the reminder.
  15. yotebuster1200
    Fair enough, im just trying to do a little research before driving 2 hours to go look at it. Anvils don't come up for sale around here very often. I have done some forging on a post anvil and that is about it. I know it is probably leaps and bounds above what i have been using but i would rather put my money towards good tools (anvil) than make a bad purchase. Thanks again.
  16. yotebuster1200
    I kind of wondered if that might be the case. I wasnt able to find any pictures of other trenton anvils with the same setup. How would you expect the modification would affect performance and value?
×
×
  • Create New...