yotebuster1200

I have never used a delta printer. Delta printers have their pros and cons. For me the round print bed is an awkward shape for most of the things I print so I never looked into them that much. They also almost never come with direct drive extenders so that limits some of the material you can print (flexible rubber like filament and even casting wax). They can print a little faster but that's not always the case. They also are nice if you need really tall prints. They are cool to watch print but they just dont match my needs.

The Ender 3 is probably (by far) the most popular beginner 3d printer and can be had for around 250.00 (ender 3 pro is usually around 250 and you can get the ender 3 for less than 200 on sale). There is a large support groups on Facebook that will help you get going. There are also a lot of youtube videos as well. I would say the best beginner 3d printer is a Prusa Mk3s+. Prusa has a year after year produced probably the most award winning 3d printer. It will do more than the Ender 3 because of the hot end design and the direct drive extruder. It is pretty much a set it and forget it (click and print) printer. They are just above your budget and will be around 800 shipped. I would tell you to go for both flexible build plates (smooth and textured) so that puts you around 840ish. I own both and have printed close to 10kg of filament on the ender and 25 on the Prusa. Hands down I would buy the prusa again over the Ender. Oh wait... I just bought my second Prusa MK3S+ about 2 weeks ago . The ender is capable of the same results of the Prusa but the just makes it so much easier. I hope that helps..

What are the inside dimensions of your mini forge? Are you heating it with a super 1/4" burner yet?

Mikey, is there a lot of differences in tuning a burner for propylene vs propane?

For forging blades an even uniform heat is idea but I think for tool forging direct heat may be best. I haven't messed around for a while. I have bought a few things in preparation of future experimenting but that is about it.

I am glad to see a little progress on the thread. I have been stopping buy every 2-3 weeks to see if I have missed something even though I get notifications when someone posts. Keep up the great work.

ABS has a high tendancy to warp when it cools faster in one area than another. If there is a draft you will end up with warped parts and often prints that have corners pulling away from the print bed. Many people print ABS in an enclosure. If I wanted smoothed castable parts I would most likely set up to do PLA smoothing it seems to be a much better material for burnout. Although i wouldn't be opposed to figuring out the setup for lost wax filaments. Both my printers are direct drive so they probably wouldnt be to tricky to get diled in.

That was kind of the price range I was thinking.

The anvil is a couple hours away. I wanted to gather some initial info before making a trip. The guy was asking 1100 bucks but after I asked him where he came up with that number he said he knew nothing about anvils and just looked at some classified prices. I told him that anvil prices can vary $1-6 per lb based on brand, condition and performance and can go for more if they are extremely sought after anvils. He then said he was open to offers. I told him i wouldnt make an offer until i had some more info. I figgured I would let him know a low end and high end offer before I drive up to look at it and let him know i would give him a final offer when i check it out (ring and rebound)

I am trying to dig up some information on this anvil. To be honest i am not hoping for much because there are no stamps or markes besides what looks like a touch mark on the far left, a weight (150) and a serial number. From the appearance I would say it looks like a forged anvil. The owner hit it lightly with an angle grinder. All the marks on the face make me kind of assume the face is a little soft but that is only a guess. What are your thoughts? Is there any way to identify the maker of this anvil and perhaps the estimated quality before I drive a couple hours to check it out?

I kind of figgured the difference between the 3d printer jet and mig tips might be the length of the orifice. In the fire fighting industry (and probably other industries) we call that friction loss. You lose pressure the longer a fluid (gas) flows through a tube of a given diameter. The smaller the tube the more friction loss you experience.

So I have been thinking about your jets. You should use some hex main carburetor jets. Yoi can get them anywhere from .6mm mutch past 3.0mm. The best part is they come in about .025mm increments. For instance you can buy a 1mm, 1.02, 1.05, 1.08, 1.1, 1.12, 1.15, 1.18, 1.2. With these jets you should be able to fine tune your burners a little easier. I have ordered a set that goes from .6 - 1mm in .05mm increments and plan on ordering another set that goes from .8- 1.5mm (ish) in .025mm increments. In another post you mentioned that you get a tighter burn with the 3d printer nozzles when compaired to the mig tips. I wonder if it is because the triangle shaped tip which somewhat matches the shape of the top cone on your indection zone (where the 3d printer tip rests). So it might be worth grinding the carb jet into a similar profile so you have the shape. Ok now for a question, when you say this burner (which is absolutly incredible) is a 3/8 burner where is this measurement taken, is it .375 (or probably nominal 3/8ths at the location where the burner enters the forge, or is it the measurement at the narowest point in the burner assembly (the bottom of your mixing cone)? What is the widest part of the burner. Nice work on these burners and forges.

I finally got around to resizing the pics. Thanks for the tip Irondragon

Old Crew. It is in fact a 310# forged anvil.

Well, maybe it is forged. To be honest I just read that were cast steel. I honestly thought it looked forged to me. I dont know how I did considering how rare anvils are around here but I paid 1100 for it. Not a steal but probably not to bad.

Well i would say i had some very humble beginnings. I started this hobby with a piece of small cross section railroad track. I cut a length and stood it on end for a post style anvil and cut another 12 inch section for a flat anvil. They worked but there was nothing ideal aboit the setup. I got out of the hobby for a while and recently got interested again. Im my neck of the woods anvils dont come available to purchase very often. I kept my eyes on the regular free classifieds (marketplace and craigslist) and after a year an anvil came available that was in decent shape and I jumped on it... It is a 310lb Sichelschmidt und Schlasse anvil. In what i would consider very great shape. There is no comparison when trying to compare it to my old railroad iron. I am pretty excited to build a new forge and test drive it. I borrowed my forge to a friend and his dad backed over it with his tractor. He offered to build me a new one but i had him buy me the components to replace mine so I could build what I wanted. i do have a little plumming torch forge I made from and old 1lb propane bottle so I was able to make my make a hummingbird feeder holder upper. Did I mention this anvil is leaps and bounds above anything I have hammered on before! I will post some pictures once i can figure out how. When I try it says upload failed!

I fixed my profile. Thanks for the reminder.

Fair enough, im just trying to do a little research before driving 2 hours to go look at it. Anvils don't come up for sale around here very often. I have done some forging on a post anvil and that is about it. I know it is probably leaps and bounds above what i have been using but i would rather put my money towards good tools (anvil) than make a bad purchase. Thanks again.

I kind of wondered if that might be the case. I wasnt able to find any pictures of other trenton anvils with the same setup. How would you expect the modification would affect performance and value?

Sorry about the poor quality pictures but i need a little help with the history of this anvil. I have a friend who picked up a 75 lb trenton from this individual and the seller also had this larger trenton. My friend thinks it is twice the size as the one he picked up so that would put it around 150 lbs. What is intereating is it does not have a typical base but it has flanges that mount it to the stump. Was this a modification or dis it come from the factory that way? The seller is wanting four hundred bucks for it so I am just trying to do some research and make sure it is going to be a good deal and a good anvil to work with.