TJ Smith

Right kind of question. My pump is already rated at 16 gpm. what rpm does it need to turn to achieve that? Most sellers rate their pump at gpm not at pump replacement per 1 revolution. Check Northern Tool

At what rpm are hyd pumps rated? 1f your pump is rated at 16 gpm at what rpm is that rated at? 1725 or 3450

Looks like the same cyl I Have 26 inches long almost 5 inches in Dia. with a 3 inch rod. I use a 16 gpm and has a good speed.

Actually a new return line is what I needed. I used a clear reinforced line as everyone said no pressure in the return line. Re[placed the return line and everything works fine. Thank you all for your concern. Take care TJ Smith

Had a close one last Thurs. While forge welding a billet for feather Damascus my press blew a return line. There is not supposed to be any pressure in the return line, but let me tell you a 16 gal pump will spray hyd fluid about 10-15 feet.. The bad thing was the forge was to close and the spray from the leak went right into a 2000 degree plus forge. Instant huge fire. I was operating the press when it happened. Worked fast shutting things down,the press,the forge,grab the fire extinguisher , spray the xxxc out of everything. Have you ever tried to cool down a 2000+ degree forge full of hyd fluid. Finally got the flames out and wheeled the forge outside. No damage to anything except 1 light fixture. Need a new return line hose that will stand some pressure. Mostly a lot of cleaning and probably some new paint. Ought to leave it as a reminder?? Thank God nobody got burned or hurt. Lesson learned. Use pressure lines on the return also,Don't put your forge close to your press. Keep a fire extinguisher close. Take care (Lucky) TJ Smith

Thanks CMS for a decent reply to my question. More time was spent on my having a bad attitude then answering my question. I have been making knives since 1992,have made 3 forges, 3 presses,1 heat treat oven, and several other time saving devices. Thought maybe someone on a thread labeled mills and such might not mind passing on a little info. I am not a blacksmith,but have admired those who are. I will aploigze for bothering those who are to busy to answer general question and will go to one of the other forums. Thank you TJ Smith

Frosty dumbest answers I have ever got. Buy a new mill. DUH not gonna happen. Didn't know I had to sharpen end mills for steel. Could have suggested that. Why am I using a mill. TO make a guard slot. DUH. If you can't give a decent answer xxxx up.Thanks Kozzy and gun doc for some answers that help. I make knives. Thank you TJ Smith Thanks

In Have a small Grizzly mill. It does fine with small end mills in brass but tends to chatter with anything close to 1/4 inch. Anybody got some hint or tweaks to tune it up and stop the chatter? Tj Smith Knifemaker

Yeah looks just like mine. ()range that is0 My freind Dick and i built this . Took about a month. Dick is a excellent welder. We have made several random damascus and are working on some feather now.Love it. TJ Smith

still no pics

No pics

i like to run a reducing flame on my forge to reduce scale. I wouldn't call it soft or quiet. My forge sounds like a jet engine with flames coming out of both the back and front 3-4 inches. After a few minutes of running I can get welding heat with 4 lbs of pressure. I don't think flares or mig tips are going to improve on that. Enjoy the discussion Take care TJ Smith .

MY forge burner is a simple 8 inch piece of 1.25 black pipe. It is blown with a 65 cf fan. I don't have a nipple or small hole drilled anywhere for propane to enter. My burner is reduced in size from 2 inch to 1.25 inch and gas enters just before reduction. I have a gate valve to adjust air flow. My forge will get to 2350 degrees. Why all the nipples and special flares? Do you really need them. TJ Smith

What ever stay brite comes in I use the small package

Here is my way. Get a tight fit. Square the guard to the knife. Use a clamp of some kind to hold it in place. there are several made to do the job. Paint a little flux on the joint, holding the knife with point up so flux doesn't run down the blade. Put the tang with the point up in a vise and put a couple snippets of solder around the joint line. 2 1/8 inch long snippets usually work. I use stay brite solder and flux. Start applying heat from underneath as the flux starts to bubble hit the top with a little heat as the solder melts make sure it is connected to the knife steel and the guard. Take your sharpened wire and run it along the joint, the solder will follow along and cover the joint. Don't just pour on the heat, paint it on as needed like using a brush. should have a heat sink or wet towel about an inch above the guard. Just enough heat to do the job works best . Most problems come from to much heat. I use a propane torch with a auto ligh tip pretty small but works fine Take Care TJ