johnrgarland Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 Hey Folks! Yesterday I assembled a brake drum forge. Currently using natural charcoal as fuel but I really want some good coal. I started tinkering with a forge about a year ago and initially used kind of a cobbled together earthen forge with forced air. That didn't work too well so I got a small propane torch based forge with a few firebricks. Again I couldn't reach high enough temps to easily work the chunk of truck spring coil. This new one actually got me to the 'sparkler' temp which is too hot. I need some guidance on judging the temp based on the color. I am using an I beam as an anvil. It's not really as hard as I need and lacks a horn or a honey hole. I don't have any 'cut off' accessories and really needed that yesterday as I need to cut off another chunk of that 7/8" spring to start another knife blank. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tech413 Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 Welcome to the site! I suggest you go to the front page of the site and go through all the metalworking lessons and the blueprints, they are great for starting out and there is info on colors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 Welcome to the wood shed John, glad to have ya. The next time you light your forge take a piece of spring steel and forge a chisel. If you can get stock to sparkler heat you don't even need a sharp chisel. Sharpen it though because you don't want your stock THAT hot even if you're welding. In your travels keep your eyes peeled for a piece of RR rail, anything you can move will be just fine for an anvil, even a full stick. Oh sure it'll look kind off funny forging on a 20' long section of rail but what the hey, it's WAY better than a piece of "I" beam. If you can cut it or you find a length between say 48 and 30" you can mount it vertically and use the end. If you think about it all the face of the anvil you really use is directly beneath the hammer's face. Also, keep your eyes open for any large heavy piece of steel or iron, shapes are good. For instance the spindle from a large truck or dozer makes an excellent horn. A forklift fork makes a killer anvil. The more shapes it has the more potions you have for ready made shapes to forge over or into. You only need a little of more or less flat surface to true up pieces. What are you using for a blower in your forge? Whatever it is you need to lower the amount of air flow. There are two basic factors to controlling a fire, fuel and air, keeping both under control is necessary to success. Be aware that some blower motors depend on air flow from or to the blower for cooling. If you block the flow, intake or output, you run the risk of burning the motor up. For these make a bypass where the air flow is diverted away from the fire pot. This can be as simple as moving the blower output away from the pipe leading to the air grate. This works really well with blow driers which are susceptible to burning out if restricted. Don't bother with heating the air, it's a waste of electricity. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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