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Posted

Additionally, how about 4130? I need a few drifts and I've got some around. I'm pretty sure it's too brittle to use as a punch, but I'm thinking that if the taper was oil quenched and the the head slow cooled that it should work as a drift. Any ideas?

Posted

I would expect 4130, 4140 and 5160 to make very servicable drifts. I would probably normalize them first. This will give them some hardness but not enough to be brittle. If you Q&T them, you will probably just temper them down to pudding by repeated use.

Posted

4140 and 4130 are medium carbon chrome Moly steels. With 30 to 40 points of carbon brittleness will not likely be a problem if treated correctly. If you are using these steels for hot work they will lose their hardness quickly.
Warren

Posted

4130,4140 and 5160 will make good hawk/hammer drifts. I hand hammer and do not use a press. I just normalize and not heat treat. I have few that have been used alot without problems. I even have made them out of mild steel and have used them quiet a bit.

Posted

Due to the nature of use of drifts...in that they are sometimes in the material for a protracted period of time - I don't bother with any heat treatment as I will soon loose it.

I get - as Gerald states- very good access to used chrome/moly alloys of various types.

I am relying on its greater toughness (not hardness) over mild steel when I choose that material for my drifts.

I use chrome/moly drift in place when I spread the eye of my hammers under the power hammer (see YouTube video if you have high speed internet access - YouTube - Forging the general purpose leafing hammer)

Posted
OK thanks guys. How about slitters? 10xx series??


I would use the 4140 here as well. But this time I would heat-treat it and protect the heat-treatment with frequent quenching as I work with the chisel in the hot metal.

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