Hello to all, my first post here.

I am trying to make tool for cleaning a matchlock musket. See attachment.

The problem is the needle part. Touchhole of my gun is appx 1mm in diameter: the needle must fit minimum 10mm inside to reliable clean the touchhole.

If I try to form this kind of taper on the face of the anvil I am hitting more the anvil than the piece. 

If I try to lenghten it on the horn, I am not able to keep the taper in square crosssection, the profile is twisting etc.

Is there some trick to it or it is only about my poor hammer technique (which IS NOT great to be honest)?

Many thanks for help.

 

Unfortunately this sounds like a hammering form/ hammer dressing issue. Your hammer face should be convex to reduce the surface area- called crowning- not much, but enough that you could hit the taper properly. The taper doesn’t look all that long: I would get the cross section close round and then, if it is too difficult, to file and sand it smooth and even.

Thanks for reply. 

Yeah, I am suspecting poor hammering technique be the primary issue. 

Image is only to ilustrate the type of the tool, I need the tip to be longer and thinner to reliably clear the fouling inside the touchhole.

Filing will be the way I suppose. 

 

If you aren’t doing it already, keep the tip of a taper even with the far edge of the anvil That lets the part of the hammer face that extends beyond the tip hit air instead of anvil. 

Start drawing the taper on the end of the stock over the far edge of the anvil. CENTER the hammer's face on the anvil's edge. This is called a "Half Face Blow" and is excellent for drawing tapers because the energy of the blow is more concentrated and the half that is not supported by the anvil (Off the edge) will cause the blow to tilt naturally. 

When you roll the stock only turn 1/4 turn!! This is IMPORTANT 1/4 turn back and forth just let your wrist turn back and forth Thumb UP, Thumb to the inside Back and forth. Do NOT change your grip!

Now before you take another heat look at the results of what just happened. The stock will be straight to the point where the hammer struck the taper will start abruptly and go to the point. It'll resemble a sharp pencil but square. Yes?

Next, heat it on the FAR edge of the fire so it does not burn the tip off! Bring it to the anvil and place one edge flat on the face so the point is off the anvil and tip the stock so the only point of contact is the angle where the taper begins. You MUST lower your hand closer to the anvil so the tip is higher than the anvil's face. This will concentrate ALL the force of the blows on the smallest possible area of the stock and it will draw down VERY QUICKLY. There is no need to hit it hard!!

Again, use half face blows and 1/4 turns and draw it till the part you are forging matches the taper to the point. STOP.

That is all there is to it. Once the taper is as long as you wish is the time to use a flatter and make it even. A flatter does not need to be a special bottom tool, a reasonably thick piece of steel 15mm. minimum, 30 is more than enough. so long as it's wider than the length of the taper it's good. A handle is a REALLY good idea so you don't hit your hand!!

All the flatter is for is evening the taper you can do this cold if it is mild steel if you have to heat it, dull red will do. Remember to heat it with the point out of the far side of the GENTLE fire!!

Gentle taps with a hammer, 1/4 turn after each blow. 

Forging long tapers with a twist is pretty normal until you've made a LOT of them. Starting with square stock makes it easier but it happens anyway. Mark one face with chalk so you know which side is which.

If you pay attention you can feel when the stock is laying flat on the anvil so PAY ATTENTION!

That's how I do it and how I teach folks the next thing is practice. Being a proficient blacksmith is a LITTLE knowledge and LOTS of practice. 

I hope this translates well enough you can use it. If not let us know I'll try again.

Frosty The Lucky.