I think this is about as cheap of an anvil setup as you can get. 4X4's I used PL (sub flooring adhesive) and lag screws to hold to a giant log/stump on it's side. Then I planed an area on top for a large steel brick 11.5"L x 4"W by 2"H and I welded 6 tabs (3 on each side) and bolted it down with 3/8's x 6" long galvanized lag screws. The end effect creates a chunk of steel with a lot of mass behind in it. All in all this cost me nearly nothing. Probably less then 15$ in all.

Thought I might share this as it's so often we hear people waiting a long time to save up for a real anvil, and yet this way you can have an anvil for next to nothing and still save up for an even better anvil setup. I got this billet as a scrap cut-off at my local steel supplier. Most places will let you pick through their cut-offs which they usually set in a pile or on a shelf somewhere. If one doesn't have a welder you could bolt right through the chunk of steel itself or even perhaps just glue the chunk of steel down with PL or other sub flooring glue, that stuff is serious, just keep in mind it won't be easy to ever remove.

That's pretty slick Avadon. Only thing that I can suggest would be to maybe drill a pritchel hole it??? And the other thing that I was thinking, was what would be the chance of finding another piece like that and welding it on top of that piece, just more mass. Those my only thoughts. But otherwise, it will serve you well, now start pounding!!!

Only problem is welding really large billets like that to other billets means you really have to preheat the xxxx out of them to get them up to a temperature ready to start welding. It was pretty difficult just to get good fusion on those feet. I have a 200Amp Dynasty 200DX TIG, but something with probably another 50% more power would easily come in hany for this kind of thing.

Yep You will want a prichel and hardy hole, but they don't have to be exactly like a regular anvil either, They just have to be able to take a tool and hold it like a die and take the pounding. A hardy tool could even be a bolt on type die if necessary but you would be happier with one you can change quickly. A prichel hole is just a ~1/2'' round hole drilled through and I have a 1''x2''x12'' bar that mounts to the hardy hole that has several holes drilled of different sizes (5/16'' - 1'') for the purpose. So-far it serves the purpose.

Another real possibilty would be take a 3/8" thick flat bar or 1/4" whatever, about 3 inches long, and make a SQAURE U out of it, weld it to the side, and you have a hardy hole. Could do the same with the pritchel, a lot easier than the drilling.

Goog Job.
Whats the pipe for thats bolted to the end of the log.
Keep up the good work.
Rich

looks great when i started years ago forging my pop wouldn't let me touch his anvil he gave me his first anvil to use it was nothing but a foot long piece of RR track but it worked now if i could remember were at on the property i put it as i don't use it any more since pop sold out to me and moved and gave me his 130# anvil but any way its great way to show people that an anvil doesn't have to be in the traditional shape of anvil to work

Looks good, the only thing I thought of, other than the hardy and prichel holes, is that you will only be able to make 2" bends on the edge of the "anvil", so I would suggest either raising the anvil up or notching the log on either side to allow you to bend metal over the edge. If you choose to raise the anvil up be sure to keep it at the right working height, for me that is knuckle height but it varys a little either way for some people, so if you raise the anvil up you may need to shorten the whole thing.
Otherwise I think you did a great job, very creative.

welder19

If it's at the right hieght, then just notch the would. Easiest, and saves you a lot of hassle.

Oh I should have said something earlier. All I need that brick for is beginning blademaking/knifemaking. That pipe-flange with nipple holds all the million of forming pip-cap tools I have. So when it comes to horns, stakes, etc. etc. etc. I have all that virtually covered...

Here is just a little of my forming tools

I even have anvils I can mount on that pipe flange so I can make bends to any height. Sure it's not like my Gladiator anvil, but for something that was virtually free, I don't think you can go to wrong. Plus I don't feel bad if it rusts into the ground or I beat it ugly hehe

The tools themselves look really good, but I don't know how well the cast iron caps are going to hold up, they may crack if you hammer too hard on them.

welder19

I think as long as you thread them down fairly snug the shock is minimal on the threads and transfers into the base, this is my "fingers-crossed" theory at least. I do almost soley hot work on my anvil/forms as most of them are not-treated/hardedned.

Avadon, That's a nice assortment of tools. How come they're all so shiny? LOL.

Took him four days of polishing just to take the photo. Now its back to the dust and grime of everyday life for those little babies :)

Those remind me of all the armoring tools that Halberd over on the armor archive makes =P and if they're for armoring, that's why they're so polished, doing sheet metal work you want your tools polished.

Yes Jmercier, they're all for armour. If I beat them up smithing stuff i'll go and repolish them with 3m mini abrasive pads and my buffer. You would really be surprised at how small scratches or nicks in tooling transfers to sheet metal. So at the very least a 350-400grit matte finish on sheet metal tools is necessary to keep from transfering any blemish on the tool to the material.