trenton anvil

[Metal Head]

I just purchased my first anvil and would like to know if anyone can help me pinpoint when it was made and any good or bad points about it.It is a trenton anvil stamped 119 usa on one side,and on the front left side of the foot a T letter and then the right side of the front foot A2639,it's not in bad shape,just a few small chips along each side of the face,I read that the old smiths used to round off the sides of the face 1/2"to 3/8' to prevent chips accuring along the face,is this a good recommendation,let me know,any info will be helpful.

[Sam Falzone]

Nice score!
Can't help you much with specific info though.
I was always told that grinding some different radiuses (SP???) in your anvil face gives you consistent curves to work on depending what you're making (times when you need a 1/2" radius in a piece of work). But you still want to keep good square edges as well.
Anyone else been taught this?
aeneas

[Rob Browne]

I tend to leave the edges of my anvil alone and make mandrils for curve and angle work. That way they can be specific to the work and your anvil is preserved.

[Gayle Brooks]

Nice score!
Can't help you much with specific info though.
I was always told that grinding some different radiuses (SP???) in your anvil face gives you consistent curves to work on depending what you're making (times when you need a 1/2" radius in a piece of work). But you still want to keep good square edges as well.
Anyone else been taught this?
aeneas

ya same I have to edges about 4 inches long that have a radius but left some sharp edges for cleaning up corners etc.

Just remeber the obvious, easier to take the material away then put it back!!

[ThomasPowers]

We can find out the date from the serial number in Anvils in America, (don't have a copy at work), Trenton is an excellent quality American made anvil that at least for their later years made anvils in Columbus Ohio. The exact construction depends on time as they switched to cast steel bases at one point welded to the tops IIRC.

I generally ignore the chips on the side of my anvils and just leave them alone and make a hardy tool if I need a certain radius edge---you can make one with 4 different radii and just place it in the hardy with the one you need in the orientation you need.

[Metal Head]

Thanks,good idea,I got a response from a gentleman in michigan and he said according to the book Anvils in America my anvil was forged in Columbus,Ohio in 1899,it has the hourglass depression under the base,my next question is,is it wrought iron,cast iron,cast steel,or a mix of any of these,any info will be greatly appreciated,thanks

[Sask Mark]

I think that would have a cast steel base with a wrought iron top, and a steel face (I could be wrong though). I have a similar designed 102 pound Trenton.

[ThomasPowers]

In 1899 I thought it still had an all wrought iron body with the tool steel top. Anvils in America will tell when they switched to the other formats as I am not at all sure of this.

[Sask Mark]

That could be. I was under the impression that the hourglass depression was cast in, not forged into wrought iron. But like I said, I could be wrong as I am far from an expert.

[CurlyGeorge]

I just got a 150 pound Trenton about a week and half ago. Mine says right on the side "Wrought Iron". I didn't find a date. Maybe I should look it over a little better.

[Dragons lair]

Trentons don't have a date on them. Post serial no someone with AIA can give you a date.
Ken