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Venturi forge burner troubleshooting


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Welcome aboard Nsayegh, glad to have you. Telling us where you live in one post isn't going to stick in anybody's memory. If you put it in the header it'll be right there on every post and you'll have a better chance of meeting up with a member within visiting distance.

None of the details you provided are useful to trouble shooting your burners. What did the person who developed the plans you followed have to say? I'll bet you mixed and matched from a couple youtube build videos didn't you?

The conversion fittings to copper tubing are to get the rubber hose AWAY from the forge, not something to add to the burner just because. 

Your burner is burning IN the mixing tube and the flame is very rich. What diameter mig contact tip are you using? That's the diameter of the orifice NOT the length.

Put tape over the psi gauge it is ZERO help trying to tune a burner. The ONLY use a gauge is is in pre setting the forge temperature before lighting it so you don't have to wait for it to heat up then adjust. All the gauge is doing to you right now is confusing you with absolutely useless information. 

Your EARS will tell you when its right even more than your eyes, the gage won't tell you. If you haven't guessed I strongly dislike gages until you've tuned the burners and used the forge long enough to need more than one temperature range. Otherwise once you have it tuned you don't mess with the regulator, set it and forget it. 

The details we need to help you are: Mixing tube ID (Inside Diameter), it's length, the T size and Mig tip diameter. 

You're fittings look okay. If you put copper tubing long enough to reach a stand with a manifold away from the forge heat you can lose one rubber hose and get the rubber away from the fire. If you make a manifold a short 3/8" x 3/8" T and close 3/8" nipple to connect to the hose. is the splitter / manifold. a 1/4 turn ball valve on each side of the T lets you turn the burners off individually. and sub fittings from the valves to the copper. Put a largish loop in the copper tubing so it has some flex and you're golden. See the attached pic for mine.

I need the right details and we'll talk you through this, it isn't hard.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Hi! Thank you Mr. Lucky!! I live in upland California, and I honestly didn't consider the idea of someone being able to help me in person. The mig tip is .025 the T is 1in &1in & 3/4in the ID of the mixing tube is just under 7/8in and the length is just over 6in.

My propane hose is Y split/metal braided, I don't think there's any rubber in it.

I think that's everything, but I didn't exactly understand what you were saying in the paragraph starting with "your fittings look okay" I think it's just hard to visualize but idk.

Than you much for helping!!


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Heh, heh, heh, Call me Frosty please, Mr. Lucky sounds like I'm daring fate and I'm pretty sure I've strained my luck enough for a couple more decades. Telling us in one post where you live isn't going to stick in anybody's memory and you'll loose opportunities. If you put it in the header it's on every post.

No need to measure the mixing tub's actual ID, home made burners aren't that precise. The pipe size is what this stuff is based on. The T size leads me to assume it's a 3/4 x 6" nipple. 

Your hoses are only braided in stainless, underneath that it's pretty standard propane hose, rubber and fabric. If that's what you have you should use it. It's just a lot of weight hanging from the burner fittings to throw the jets out of alignment.

The red burner has a serious problem, you can see flame in the T!:o That is B A D. 

How did you drill and tap the Ts? I developed a simple method to keep everything centered and aligned as described in the T burner directions. The single most important thing to get right is centering and aligning the jet as straight down the center of the mixing tube as possible. A lathe is best but a drill press works well enough. 

I run 0.035 mig tips in 3/4" T burners, once tuned they deliver about 2x the BTUs per second of a 0.25 mig tip. The trick is tuning it to intake the correct amount of combustion air. From there it has a pretty flat induction curve so turning the regulator up and down controls heat output. 

Once we figure out what's going on with the red burner we'll get them tuned and you'll have a hot forge. One thing that comes to mind is a bur in the orifice disrupting the gas stream. A clean smooth cone of expanding propane flowing down the center of the mixing tube is what makes NA burners work properly. 

Frosty The Lucky.


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We still need to figure out what's wrong with the red burner before you start worrying about getting max heat. Once the fittings and everything is right changing mig contact tips is easy. You'll be taking them out sanding, deburing and replacing them a number of times tuning them anyway. 

The red burner has a PROBLEM. Solve the problems THE modify. 

Frosty The Lucky.

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