Finished my Swedge Block Stand

[maddog]

I finally mounted this block. Construction notes are in my gallery with the pix.

T-Rex included for scale.


IMG_3136 - Blacksmith Photo Gallery

IMG_3135 - Blacksmith Photo Gallery

IMG_3134 - Blacksmith Photo Gallery


A bit of history: This block has some sentimental meaning to me. Old Lee used to run a machine/welding shop. He would always spend too much time on my small nuisance jobs and charge too little. He had started getting involved in blacksmithing in his shop. The last time I went by I found he had died and a welder was taking over the premises. I picked up this block and a few tools he had made. I make a point of keeping them all in service. I feel thats what he would have wanted.

Edited August 9, 2008 by maddog
trying to get pix to show

[Frosty]

Let us know how it works. Mine is made from old guardrail posts and will hold the block on edge or on it's side.

The wedge is worth axing about though.

Frosty

[Bentiron1946]

I think you need one where you can lay it down or stand it up but if you only use a limited number of areas now you can always build another one later as you find you need to use more of the block. BTW that is a real nice SB.

[J W Bennett]

You have more faith in rebar than I have:confused:

[maddog]

I am a bit surprised this project wasn't better recieved. Let me address some of the comments.

I wanted a very sturdy stand. I mostly use the edge forms of this block as an adjunct to my anvil so that I dont need so many hardy tools. Also, this project is a pilot for the stand I plan to make for my 355# HB. The swedge stand works better than I hoped. Its very steady, no rock, no bouncing.

I do sometimes use the face of the block, but right nearby I have a massive table weighing 1000# with 1" plate for its top. This table will support work under a sledge hammer without bouncing. Space is limited in my shop and I didnt want the extra footprint for a stand that holds the block face up. Also, I looked over all the designs I could find and decided that when trying to switch a 200# block from face to edge, or edge to edge, they would be awkward and finger pinchers. Certainly no better than using my table.

Rebar is uncertain material. However, it is not to be dismissed out of hand. We depend on rebar to hold our buildings together and it doesnt often fail. Our industrial civilization would be impossible without reinforced concrete. Buying 2" hot rolled for the legs would have been prohibitively expensive and without rebar the stand would have b een flimsier. The piece is so overbuilt that I doubt any of the members would fail. The main concern was welding where one might encounter a high carbon region. I used 7104 rod which is similar 7018 suitable for HC steel and I designed the stand so that no single weld failure would be catastrophic.

After all blacksmithing has a long tradition of scavenging and using things in creative ways. There is always some risk in this (whats in the guardrail posts that Frosty used?) but done with some thought and common sense its worthwhile.

Edited August 11, 2008 by maddog

[Doug C]

Maddog,
I wonder how many of us use swage blocks. The lack of response could be that many folks do not. I would not be using one if I had not gotten a deal on one. I do not use it for much but I keep learning and see more use for one. I like what you have done and like you I use the edge forms almost exclusively so your stand would work very well for my purposes. Nice work.

[Frosty]

I use mine quite a bit.

First it's a better hardy tool holder than either of my anvils and it leaves them free.

I use the face for dishing bowls, spoons, etc. and no it's not a spoon/bowl swage.

I use the half rounds on the edge largely for straightening rd. stock without texturing it.

Wooden guardrail posts and I can change from edge to flat with a pinch bar and not get within 3' of it for safety's sake. I slip the bar into one of the top face holes as it's oriented on the stand. The top edge of the stand is exposed enough I can get the end of the bar to the far side of the top then I simply lift it and flop it over.

Letting it back down is just as easy but I have to use a hole small enough the pinch bar wedges so I can lever it up.

OR, I can use the engine hoist but that entails clearing room to get it in. Cleaning up.

Frosty