Me&Fe Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 I have recently bought an old broad axe which is cracked the whole length along the poll(i think caused by forcing too large a helve in..)I was wondering if there is an effective method of repairing this damage?ie welding it shut?..I have access to a MIG welder.My concern was if it was repaired by this method it would weaken the metal around the weld?Thanks for reading! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry W. Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 I might repair it as a showpiece or display item. I would not want it to be used as a working tool. That could make one ugly projectile. Jerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hammer Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 If I remember correctly, a broad axe is a hand tool, not a struck tool. It's hard for me to imagine that it would be dangerous to use it if it were welded with modern equipment. Just be sure the handle installation has proper integrity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finnr Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 I've welded new edges on a couple of broad axes, but never seen the damage you are describing. Sounds like some long ago genius was using the poll as a hammer. A weld on that part of the ax should hold with modern methods. Finnr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug C Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 Broad axe can be used in dressing timber to create flat sides. Usually the head is flat on one side and beveled on the other. The flat side is against the wood. It can be struck or swung. An adz was used afterwards to dress the timber. I was in a 17th century house recently where the timbers had been hand hewn and dressed with an adz but I would have sworn that an plane had been used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finnr Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 Most of the time the only way to tell adzed from planed is the very slightly rippled surface. Those oldtimers were real good! Finnr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Me&Fe Posted July 29, 2008 Author Share Posted July 29, 2008 #5 I know what you mean.Ive seen a tabletop levelled with an adze where the guy using the tool was letting it swing under his toes!It also looked like it had been planed.Thanks for the advice anyway!.I guess its just going to be a display piece... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 Don't do anything if it's going to be a display piece! Only repair it if it's going to be used. If it's old enough the body of the axe will be wrought iron and of very low carbon content indeed! So no HAZ issues. Wrought is a bit trickier to weld using modern methods but can be done and done well. You may want to experiment welding on a piece of scrap wrought iron first. If it's more modern it may all be a carbon steel; preheat, weld, postheat---keep the blade edge cool with wet rags and don't get excessive with the temps and you will have no problems with it. So you gonna use it or just look at it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Me&Fe Posted July 29, 2008 Author Share Posted July 29, 2008 HAZ issues?Please explain..:confused:I studied the axe a bit closer today to see if it had a carbon edge welded onto a wrought body and discovered it hasnt,its made from one piece...Think i might just look at it until it gets sucked into all the other junk in my forge.But i have read and took on your advice an ill have a go at repairing another broken axe i have before attempting on the broad axe(if ever..) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finnr Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 HAZ = Heat Affected Zone Finnr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 The issue with welding a high carbon steel with modern methods is that the area right near the weld zone can get above the austinizing temp and then be "quenched" brittle by the surrounding steel that wasn't heated. If it isn't tempered you than have a stressed very brittle zone near the weld and catastrophic failure is common. By preheat and post heat you prevent this auto quenching without tempering and get a strong good weld area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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