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I Forge Iron

Finally got my forge going


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After 2 different blacksmithing courses and many months, I got my forge lit.  A welding friend gave me some square stock, and I was making it move but it was 1x1 inch and I'm still a rookie, even though I work construction and exercise a lot, I don't want to give my self tendonitis, so I switched to smaller rebar... I surprisingly squared it up very nice, the taper was pretty good as well. I tried putting a scroll on it and wasn't happy with it, so I was trying to fix it and boom the belt gave out on my rivet forge... So now I have to fix that.  But I got a couple hours in and it felt great, I love blacksmithing and next year I plan on going to meets. I need some fire brick for the forge, and I knew the clay bricks would crack but they still worked. It was nice doing it without the pressure in class.


I have a big buffalo forge to set up in the room. I lost too much time from the forge to anvil. That is the next project, debating on putting a concrete floor in or not, I can probably get free concrete and we do concrete work so why not.




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Looking good... Making a new belt is no big deal. One thing I would recommend is, instead of fire brick line the cast iron pan with clay, to prevent it from cracking. You can shape a ducks nest fire pot that way. Cheap unscented kitty litter is bentonite clay and when mixed with some grog (sand) it will not crack if the water content is right (not too wet).

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It is looking good, maybe move the forge and anvil closer to the door so long as the walkway is clear. Hmmm.

IDF&G has the right of it regarding claying the pan and how to make a duck's nest. Mine is clayed about 1" thick with a depression down to the air grate. I shape the fire with fire bricks around it. You're close but not quit yet. ;)

You should be able to shorten the pump handle unless it takes much strength to pump it now. Those blowers move pretty easily.

Do you know how to splice rope? You weave them together, once you have a handle on it it's really easy and there are lots of pages on the internet to show you how. Why did I ask that!?:o I've seen more lever action forge blowers with rope for belts than leather belts. Those machines were designed to be easily gotten back in action, no smith making a living with a pan forge could afford to wait while a new belt came in the mail or splice leather strap. Leather strap was/is expensive, look how many old photos show people with rope belts and suspenders.

You are going to have fun with that rig.

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Thanks, I was going to move the anvil closer, but had no one to help. I'm pretty sure I could move my anvil myself, but its 220lbs and I don't really want to find out if I can or not. I have to small anvils I can use when I'm outside, but no base for them yet. 


The handle moves very smooth, I was pumping with my left hand and swinging the hammer with my left, I could have done it all day. It didn't even cross my mind to shorten it. I'm going to line it with kitty litter and look into splicing rope soon.

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Agreed, do NOT take chances moving things more heavy than you're comfortable moving. It ain't worth the risk. 

I saw you're left handed, pumping or cranking the blower with your dominant hand is the better. This leaves you tending the fire and holding tongs or stock with your holding hand so you don't have to switch. Simpler and faster is almost always better so long as it works.

Before you start cutting the handle just try choking up on it till you find the comfortable length. I'd cringe with that much handle sticking out in my work space, I'd be concerned with someone not me walking into it and dumping the fire in the shop. Hmmm?

Frosty The Lucky.

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Yeah you are totally right. I will see what feels right and cut it off there, i did feel like the handle encroached on my work space. 

I hurt my groin once moving a very heavy statue a long distance. Took about 4 months until it didn't hurt to use the bathroom, it humbled me and made me more cautious. 



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