williamhesse Posted April 17, 2019 Share Posted April 17, 2019 Wanted to say "Hi". I'm just starting blacksmithing as a hobby and really love all the information here. I have been retired for a few years and money is a real issue for me as it is for a lot of people. I live in a very rural part of California in the mountains East of Bakersfield and resources are slim. I enjoy working with my hands and am a competent welder. I am in the process of putting together a gas forge using the 8 or so K26 fire bricks that have been sitting on the shelf in the back of my shop, and a home made propane forge burner. Fortunately we get home delivery for propane. My anvil is a 50 lb Harbor Freight special which I realize is not at all adequate. It's either that or a 2 foot chunk of rail. I should be able to pick up some side work cutting weeds this summer and am keeping my eye out for a decent anvil. Man, those things sure have gotten expensive, but you never know what you can come across. Anyway, thanks for a great forum and all the information. -Bill- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted April 17, 2019 Share Posted April 17, 2019 Welcome to IFI... Patience usually pays off when looking for an anvil that's affordable using the TPAAAT. For starters I suggest reading through the sticky threads in the areas that interest you, just make a sandwich & preferred beverage, there are quite a few. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 17, 2019 Share Posted April 17, 2019 Welcome aboard Bill, glad to have you. RR rail makes a fine anvil IF you mount it on end rather than on it's side and ground to LOOK like a London pattern anvil. The effectiveness of an anvil is largely a matter of how much steel or iron is directly below the hammer. This is the depth of rebound, the compression wave (sound) travels to the end and rebounds at the speed of sound through the material, high carbon steel in RR rail's case. the compression wave arrives back at the anvil's face WHILE the hammer is still deforming the steel and so applies a simultaneous return blow to the work from the bottom. Rail laid flat dissipate energy by flexing under the hammer's force and so is much less effective as an anvil. Another truly excellent aspect of a rail anvil is how handy the flange and web is, you can grind virtually any bottom die shape you need in them as shown by Charles Stevens' post about improvised anvils. Sorry I can never remember the title. If you run into issues with the burner or forge give a shout if you can't find what you're looking for in the Burner's 101 or Forges 101 threads. Just skim for what you need, they're awfully long to read through everything. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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