My first forge build

[Bigfootmetalworks]

Hey guys! Tyler here, this is going to be my first propane forge build and I’ve done research and any input would be greatly appreciated! Here’s what I have in mind: 

1) After removing the valve from the tank as well as the base ring and top ring around the valve. 

2) I plan on cutting both ends off of the propane tank(the same amount off of each end) 

3) Each end removed will be hinged, but will aslo have a smaller 4”x6” hole identical in each door as well 

4) I plan on lining doors, tank with a double layer of 1”Inswool, will then coat with 1/4” of satanite, and a few coats of ITC 100

5) fire brick in bottom of forge, I have 2 Geode style burners ( given to me as gifts) I think they were bought off amazon, I was thinking they should enter the forge at 45 degree angle 

6) was also given a 100lb propane tank to use for the forge

Is there anything I should change? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated I have no experience in this so these are my plans after doing my own research thanks in advance! 

[Irondragon Forge ClayWorks]

Welcome to IFI... Have you read this yet? READ THIS FIRST

It will help you get the best out of the forum.

[Another FrankenBurner]

You can go to the thread Forges 101.  It contains lots of information on building a forge. 

As to the brick in the bottom of the forge, it is a large heat sink which will take a lot of fuel to heat and usually ends up in colder forge temperatures.  The general recommendation is to wrap the ceramic blanket all the way around and a thin piece of high alumina kiln shelf on top of it for a tough floor. 

The wise ones are steering people away from the ITC-100 as it is not good for forge use.   They are recommending plistix or metrikote.  Good news, they are both cheaper than the ITC.  

The burners entering at a 45, why?  The general recommendation from Mikey is at 2 on the clock, pointed downward enough to strike the near side of the floor but still with enough angle to promote spin in the forge.  The downside to this arrangement, when the forge is cycled off, the burner becomes a chimney.  If you go this route, close the chokes on your burners after shutdown.  

[Bigfootmetalworks]

Awesome thanks metrikote is something I’ll have to look into, and as the 45 degree angle is a true guess as I know I want to promote good spin in the forge 

[Another FrankenBurner]

Wayne Coe sells both the metrikote and the plistix.  He also sells kast o lite which is a castable refractory that a lot of people use(instead of satanite).  As to metrikote vs plistix, people seem to be happy with either.  

As to burner angle causing flame spin, the flame tends to spin regardless.  The first thought with burner position should be where is that flame going to impinge.  The flame can damage the area it hits, this includes the walls of your forge and your stock.  The high alumina shelf is tough stuff and is a good place to aim the flame.  If you design it so the shelf is replaceable, all the better.  

All of this is covered in more detail in Forges 101.  It is a great resource. 

[Bigfootmetalworks]

Awesome thanks again, trying to finalize all my details before I start, I’m all for learning by experience, but I would rather spend time doing the research so I can have the best possible out come on my end this first run but I’m sure I’ll find things I’ll want to change on the next go around , thanks again for the tips I have been doing some digging on that thread today!