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I Forge Iron

Japanese pull saw


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Got a full length of practically brand new band saw blade from work, had snapped so they junked it (got another one too recently), and figure why waste it on damascus :P , I would make it into HMM WHAT ELSE? A saw:D. These saws cut on the pull stroke, I like them better than cutting on the push stroke.

Thomas please let me know if the Sheffeild carpenters thought of this one too and I can amend the title ;) .

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I cut a peice of dried up firewood at the shop the same day I finished it, it worked VERY good, very agressive cut but it was nice and clean, the wood was oak. WHen I tried to cut pine however the saw kept binding, don't know if that is because the pine is so sappy or not.

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That is just the nature of pine. Very high sap. Even a chainsaw will bind faster and need sharpened more frequently cutting pine. I worked as the Sanderman at a local plywood mill (mostly hardwood) for several years here in Oregon. I could run hardwoods like oak, maple, birch etc. with the sanders set up with 80, 100, 220 grit papers for an entire 8 hour shift (4000+ panels a night). When I set up for pine though, the papers grit would plug up quick. On the first load I would be standing at the sanders blowing compressed air onto the papers trying to clean the build-up off the papers as it accumulated....it was a losing battle.

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IIRC the ancient egyptians used pull saws and I need to check the set of the teeth on the mastermyr find as I seem to recall that the norse did too in late viking times...but I'm happy to go with the term "japanese" for these types of saws. (Though you will note that curved pruning saws, especially pole mounted ones are often used on the pull stroke---but are usually can cut both ways.)

I put decent band saw blades in my bowsaw for a 30" hacksaw and cut everything---wood, metal, plastic, hot metal, bone, horn, etc with them and when dull *then* they go into the patternwelding pile...

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