MilwaukeeJon Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 Compared to a normalized forged blade (1084 is what I’ve been using) is a flat ground blade less prone to warping during heat treat? Are there other important qualitative differences to consider when opting for flat grinding over forging and then grinding? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TacticallySharp Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 I forge a bevel, ricaso, and the handle on mine. If there is a taper I forge it too. I forge 90% to the finished dimensions. I leave the knife edge at the thickness of a nickel when taking it to critical temperture, and for the quenching process. Sand it down to a dime before tempering. I also use Parks 50 as my quenching oil. On my stock removal knives that are thin, less than 1/8," I leave them flat, and grind after the total hardeness, and tempering rocess. Especially kitchen knives. This has worked for me very well with all the high carbon steels I normally use. 1080,1084,1085,1075, 5160. Remember that 1080, and 1084 are very forgiving steels to harden and temper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joël Mercier Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 It seems to have worked for you but isn't sanding between the quench and temper a bit risky? I've heard some guys cracked some blades for just waiting too long before tempering. Also, why sanding when the steel is extremely hard when you can do it more easily after the temper? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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