Brute de Forge one-piece blade made from automotive coil spring.

All hand tools and coal forge (no power tools at all). 

Design concept was something between a seax and a santoku shape. That took a pretty aggressive pre-bend to end up with a straight edge. 

I was trying to get more of an aggressive step down to the blade to keep the hand from sliding forward on a thrust, but this is the best I could get. 

Steps: Forged, annealed, fine shaping and edging with files, oil quenched, tempered, sharpened (it will remove arm hair nicely). 

I know there are some major hammer marks that would be a challenge to remove if I were going for a clean finish, but they work okay with the brute de forge. 

 

Those hammmer marks are not incredibly difficult to remove, and requires no power tools. Just flatten the steel while hot. Use a thick bar of mild steel and hammer it down right onto the blade. The bar acts as a top swage and the anvil, the bottom swage. Takes a few heats if the marks are deep, but it is WAY faster then draw filing it  

Interesting blade shape, for sure. What are your plans for the handle? Leaving it the way it is? I assume this because the tang looks way thick for a hidden tang handle. 

3 minutes ago, Will W. said:

Those hammmer marks are not incredibly difficult to remove, and requires no power tools. Just flatten the steel while hot. Use a thick bar of mild steel and hammer it down right onto the blade. The bar acts as a top swage and the anvil, the bottom swage. Takes a few heats if the marks are deep, but it is WAY faster then draw filing it  

Interesting blade shape, for sure. What are your plans for the handle? Leaving it the way it is? I assume this because the tang looks way thick for a hidden tang handle. 

Handle: Yes, leaving as-is, but I may do a leather wrap. 

I'll keep that in mind for flattening hammer marks. I knew it was going to be rough finish anyway, so I'm fine with them, especially considering it is only the third thing I ever made forging (the first was a bottle opener, and the second was a mild steel practice knife to learn some basic shaping technique).