Need some help relining

[Drego]

Hey there,

 

I tried searching the the forum and read through the stickies. Found lots of info, mostly technical stuff that is good information but isn't exactly what I'm looking for.  So here goes. 

I have a majestic 2 burner knife maker delux forge that I pooched the liner in the lid on. I picked up some Kaowool 1", rigidizer and some refracrory mortar from a local pottery supply place. 

I suppose a little back story is due. The liner that is in the forge developed cracks in it. I tried sealing the cracks but used the wrong material which ended up eating into the liner. So I cleaned the wrong material out and used some imperial high temp stove and furnace cement to seal up those cracks and areas where I cleaned it out. Pictures are below. 

So now I figure I'm going to scrap the liner that's in there and try and replace it with the Kaowool. Rumour has it that the kaowool will be more efficient then the current liner that comes in the forge to begin with. Dimensions of the lid are 13 3/4" x 9" x 1 1/2"

On to the questions I have. 

1. Should I "glue" the first layer of  kaowool to the metal lid or try and friction fit it to the lid?  If I do glue it then with what?

2.  Do I apply the rigidizer to the first layer of kaowool, or put both layers in then rigidize?

3. If I rigidize layer by layer, then do I need to fire the forge layer by layer to "cure" the rigidizer before applying the next layer of kaowool?

4.  After the rigidizer is cured do I apply the refractory mortar to it?  If so how thick? If let's say 1/4" thick do I apply the mortar in layers or just one 1/4" thick application?

5.  After the mortar, do I do a wash coat of mortar on top of that?

6.  Burner holes. Should I apply the mortar to the circumference of the burner holes to protect the kaowool from flame?

Sorry for the long post but I've never relined before and want to do this correctly the first time. Also I haven't been able to find a step by step on the forum. 

Couple of notes with the pictures, the imperial cement pictured is not the same refractory mortar I picked up from the pottery place.  The dark grey cement versus the light grey is just that the darker stuff was applied after firing the forge with cement already in it so it's "uncured"  

 

Thanks,

Dennis

[Jasent]

When I did mine I rigidizer layer by layer and fire cured after both where finished. 

You could use some screws, screwed in from the out side to hold the first layer in place. The rigidizer will glue the two layers together when you cure it. 

I would def use refactory where the burner comes in  

Did you know you can make your own rigidizer for less than $10 for about half a gal worth??

[Mikey98118]

4 hours ago, Drego said:

So now I figure I'm going to scrap the liner that's in there and try and replace it with the Kaowool. Rumour has it that the kaowool will be more efficient then the current liner that comes in the forge to begin with. Dimensions of the lid are 13 3/4" x 9" x 1 1/2"

Maybe; if the original liner is some form of ceramic fiber board than no. In that case, it can only match it for insulating value, and will not be anywhere near as tough.

Colloidal silica rigidizer (fumed silica in water) can also be used as glue.  The furnace cement, watered down, has been used as a toughening seal coat for the blanket, and might also work to glue the blanket onto a hard surface.

[Drego]

I knew there are lots of recipes for "home grown" rigidizer and other things. But it was $9.00 for the pint I got so no huge deal plus I have never done this before so I'd rather go with a known product then something I've tried to mix together. 

 

Any ideas as to what thickness of refractory I should be applying?

[Jasent]

Which refactory are you using?

[Drego]

It's from a place called pottery supply house. Looks like it may be their own blend. Gonna see if I can find the MSDS on it if there is one.