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I Forge Iron

spike#3


markb

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I cut the head off. I'm just going to use the spike steel without the head to practice. I tried another one to day, spent all day forging and grinding, screwed up on the grind, so I think it's scrap, can't seem to get the shape I want,forge to thin or leave too deep of hammer marks, don't get flat etc. the list goes on, this last one looked like a potato chip,.
Sure have a lot of respect for the guys that can do this.

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Thanks Phil, yesterday was very discouraging, but I think I found out one of my problems.
What I thought was hammer divots, are slag pockets that have been pounded in. I do need to refine my hammering. Also I've been forging at yellow heat which I read was bad, but goes faster, I don't know how bad. I 'm afraid I may be developing bad habits.
I ruined yesterdays forging at the grinder, might be able to salvage it( small version) with a file.
When I saw the twist (Pringle) i ignored it to concentrate on the blade. Blade first then handles etc.
I have some handle ideas but haven't made a blade worthy of one yet.
Thanks for your encouragement, the feedback really helps.
Mark

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most that don't screw up probobly never lit a fire.as far as heat goes the more carbon content the lower heat you use-so you don't burn away the carbon.spikes are a max. of 30 pts. carbon and not good for more than a letter opener, etc. need atleast 60 pts. or higher to make a decent blade. BUT please don't stop or take this as a put down, you are developing skills and technique. that my friend is a ongoing process.look at the blue prients and it will give you lots of ideas and projects.and keep it up, happy hammering, jimmy

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  • 2 weeks later...

I agree with Jimmy, with the exception of spikes marked as High carbon (they have a little HC mark on the head) and these are good for utility blades like tomys or small hatchets and utility work knives that take a beating anyway. But, not good for 'higher' quality blade roles.

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