tompdw Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 This is something I am working on. I pounded it into rough shape and then cleaned it up on the grinder. I have to smooth out the pits and I need to hammer in the edge bevel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 A couple of comments if you do not mind..it almost seems as if your hammer face is rounded,,that works good for roughing shapes out but a flatter face will help with the smoothing...If you forge down the edge before heat treat you risk a chance of warpage I would heat treat then grind....In any case you have a very good start...enjoy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tompdw Posted March 10, 2008 Author Share Posted March 10, 2008 I don't mind a bit. I know very little because I'm just starting. I appreciate any tip or helpful suggestion that comes my way. I am using a 3# drilling hammer. What you see is pits not necessarily rounded hammer blows. I used a rusty leaf spring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitro Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 just my two cents, you can forge or grind the bevel down to about 1/16" before heat treating. After you treat it, it will be hard to file a bevel. Oh and looking very good Hope this helps Nitro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tompdw Posted March 11, 2008 Author Share Posted March 11, 2008 I have no bevel on the blade at all. I was planning on just starting the bevel and then cleaning it up on the grinder. I oil quench and then stick it in my toaster oven. I haven't tried the temperature crayons yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Dwyer Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 I guess you really want to practice to tackle working with such a rusty piece of metal. I hope you find some good clean stuff to work with too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azmike Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 Tom, good start. forging in the bevel would require a flat faced hammer to help reduce frustrations (hard to remove dents), and then a good file or grinder (i still do the file thing). I have been taking the edge down thinner as i get better at this and have had very few problems as yet, as long as i normalize several times during the process. taking a hardened edge down from 1/16" to sharp without powertools, is difficult and time consuming for me, so the closer it is the better i like it. i've already resolved myself to the fact i will experience warped and/or cracked blades but i'm willing to live with that. please take any and all i say with a grain of salt, as i am by no means as knowledgable or talanted as many (most) who post here. azmike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tompdw Posted March 12, 2008 Author Share Posted March 12, 2008 I just want to thin the edge down a little bit. I am not ready to beat the whole thing down yet. I am just going to start it then grind. As far as normalizing. When I am done for the day I will shut my propane forge down and place my blank in the forge overnight so I will cool slowly. I know I won't get all of the pits out but that's what happens with scrapyard steel. thanks everyone for the tips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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