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I Forge Iron

Newbe from alabama


Tim37

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 newbe here have worked with metal most of my life welding have a little bit of knowledge of smithing but that's about it a little bit ordered a new anvil and forge got the anvil today it's a Emerson the forge is a nc what do I need to do before I start using them 

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Welcome aboard Tim, glad to have you. If you'll put your general location in the header you might be surprised how many of the Iforge gang live within visiting distance.

PPE. No synthetics in a hot shop, touching something ore than about 300f and synthetics melt, stick to your hide and deep fry you. It's a B-A-D thing. Leather boots. Eye protection, no not a pair of glasses real deal safety glasses and if you're doing something that puts a lot of debris in the air a face shield TOO. The goggles that seal your eyes from outside are PRIMO.

You'll want a good anvil stand, mount it with the face about wrist height, standing relaxed next to it with your arms hanging relaxed at your sides. Old books say knuckle height but those were days when a blacksmith didn't work solo and had strikers swinging sledge hammers so a lower anvil face worked better.

There are a number of effective anvil stands but to start with I suggest something reasonably portable so you can move things around till you settle on a layout that works well for you. There is the old school wood block, often called a stump. The sand box stand which are adjustable for height and can be emptied to make traveling much easier. I have and prefer a steel tripod stand, they're stable, solid, easily portable and you can get really close if a process requires it. They're all good don't make any final decisions till you try things and alternatives out.

You'll want your forge about 6' or a pace +/- from the anvil, bench and vise just like a kitchen work triangle for the same reasons. Hammer racks and tong racks. I like hanging my in use tongs on the forge though more are close by on racks on my little steel table. My in use hammers have racks on my anvil stand.

For hammers you want start out with moderate weights till you've developed hammer control and good techniques. Leave heavier and harder till you're trained up some. I like to start folk with a 32oz drill hammer. It's a good weight and can do some serious work but not so heavy as to make your mistakes permanent right away. The handle is shorter for better control as well. I have a few drill hammers one is always on my anvil hammer rack, I use it when careful control is called for. A nice cross pein is a good hammer as is a single jack sledge and a good rounding hammer. This makes a pretty good starting kit though hit yard, garage, etc. sales with an eye out for any smooth faced hammers especially ball peins. Ball peins can be turned into any number of top tool or specialty hammer. The ones I get a little thrill seeing are old rusty ones with broken handles, they usually go for really cheap. 

Tongs are good to have but if you start with reasonably long stock you don't need tongs to hold it and holding it directly by hand gives you better control and feel for what's going on. Making your own tongs is in your future but don't get in a hurry, they're a pretty tough beginner's project. However if you get hooked up with an experienced smith get him/er to show you how to make tongs. You'll never regret being able to make well fitted tongs.

Hack saw & blades, garage, yard, etc. sale chisels, punches, Allan wrenches, pry bars, etc. remake into good tools. You can use cold chisels as is at the anvil but the profile for a hot chisel is more acute. Basically picking these up at sales provide good tool stock.

Don't get in a hurry and whatever you do do NOT think you have to have all the right tools to get started. All you really need is a fire, something to beat against, something to beat with, and something to get really hot and abuse. Most importantly have fun, this is a LOT of fun.

Frosty The Lucky.

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