Phil Dwyer Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 Hi Friends, Any of you good people have any old contact wheels you're not using any more and might be willing to sell? Maybe one's you've replaced or upgraded or upsized? I'm building Tracy Mickley's no-weld grinder to use in our high school blacksmithing classes (with appropriate safety training and measures). Guess I didn't quite realize there'd be over $500 in drive, tracking and contact wheel expenses. Already got a motor off eBay shipping in for about $150 (freight to these isles amid the Pacific is a itch.) Well thanks for your consideration and for such a great forum! Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markh Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 Phil, I just got a copy of Brownell's(gunsmithing) catalog a they have very good prices on brand new contact wheels. The best prices I've seen.Brownells Gunsmithing Tools Take care Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FredW Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 This place has some really good prices on wheels. Urethane Products Manufacturer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdent Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 Hi Phil, Maybe...the kids would scrounge up skateboard wheels to try. Tell them gotta be the wider ones, I think they get close to 2" width. No contact wheel, but maybe there's enough possibilities to set up a flat platen. I've never done it, but it may be near free in cost to try. If you don't mind, I was curious about which schools offered the blacksmithing classes. No big deal, it just seems that many of the shop or trade type classes are falling by the wayside, and it's too bad. Good luck with the project, Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Dwyer Posted February 24, 2008 Author Share Posted February 24, 2008 Hi guys, Thanks for the tips. The gun smithing site has a lot of abrasive and buffer type wheels. I didn't see any drive, tracking or contact wheels though. On-the-other-hand, Sunray has quite a reasonably priced selection. For instance here's an 8" wheel for $76, Sunray, Inc. - Detail. I know it wouldn't be in the same league as the $250+ ones, but hey, if these could work I might actually get this thing built. They have key slotted ones too that might could work for the drive wheel too. Anyone know what hardness the treads should be? Would I probably have to "turn" the surfaces a bit to get something like a slight convex shape? If so, could it be done by bolting the wheels on the grinder's drive shaft and using files and sandpaper? Does it matter whether the cores are steel or aluminum? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks, Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Dwyer Posted February 25, 2008 Author Share Posted February 25, 2008 If you don't mind, I was curious about which schools offered the blacksmithing classes. No big deal, it just seems that many of the shop or trade type classes are falling by the wayside, and it's too bad. Craig It's the Honolulu Waldorf High School. The classes are considered applied art courses, not shop or trade ones. Never-the-less, they're doing metal and wood work, so call it what you will. Share just one forge at the moment (burn coke). Have two little anvils. I'm just about to complete another forge. Rounded up one more small farrier's anvil so far. We're having lots of fun. Thanks for asking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdent Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 Hey Phil, thanks. I'm on Oahu myself, so I know how lucky those kids are to be exposed to those crafts. I gotta think tracking down some wheels would be a piece of cake if you're able to feed a coke forge, and managed to find three anvils here. Best of luck with the grinder, Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Dwyer Posted February 25, 2008 Author Share Posted February 25, 2008 Hey Craig: One of these days we have to get together. I just came back from NH with one of those anvils, a 68 pounder. Brought it back as "luggage". One of the others is a Harbor Freight special, 110 lbs. Freighted it over from CA a few years back. The third is a friend's on loan. Let me know if you hear about any. Anyone: As for the wheels, Sunray, Inc. - Detail, got any ideas how to shape them up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Kelley Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 Anyone: As for the wheels, Sunray, Inc. - Detail, got any ideas how to shape them up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ten Hammers Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 Phil if you have a wheel to use for driver, try some belting epoxied to the wheel. My home built is driven in this fashion. Used a web clamp to hold while drying. Suspect been 10 years or better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Dwyer Posted February 26, 2008 Author Share Posted February 26, 2008 Ken: I understand what you're describing re mounting the wheel on a shaft to spin against the grinder. I've done that when fabricating large washers. I'll have to get the grinder built with a platen tool in order to do it. Say, what are you going to do with your Sunray contact wheel when Tracy's comes in? Want to sell it? It's for a good cause. Ten Hammers: What grit was the belt you used to add traction to the drive wheel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Dwyer Posted February 27, 2008 Author Share Posted February 27, 2008 The Sunray wheels will work fine...with a few conditions. The wheel covering is cast polyurethane and will melt or soften fairly easily. What hardness was your wheel? I wonder if you had a softer one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ten Hammers Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 The belting had no grit. It was scrapped baler belt ( smooth ). Same as material handling belting for large part. Corded belt I guess 3/16 thick. Ends skeived to overlap. Had to rip the belt to fit the ( 2") driver wheel. Most small baler belt is 4". Used in production of hay. Also works great for other things ( my compressor is bolted down through belt pads ). I build the basement stairs for the local theater ( must be 15 years ago ). Wet basement. Base of stairs was set on cement blocks and belting between the block and bottom of stair run ( to insulate from moisture ). They still use a carbon arc fired projector. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saintjohnbarleycorn Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 i wonder if leather would work, contact cement to the wheel. they use leather to run lathes and such and almost everything else back in the day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Kelley Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 What hardness was your wheel? I wonder if you had a softer one? I specified 70 durometer for my wheel as that is what the "normal" for contact wheels seemed to be based on my forum research. However, I don't think the hardness of the polyurethane has much bearing on it's propensity to melt or soften. After all, these wheels were really designed to be casters, not contact wheels. Sorry Phil, I'm going to keep mine because it is a useful wheel as long as I don't get carried away with overly aggressive grinding. Besides, I'd hate to be the one who deprives you of all the fun involved in truing a new one. Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Dwyer Posted February 27, 2008 Author Share Posted February 27, 2008 Besides, I'd hate to be the one who deprives you of all the fun involved in truing a new one. Thanks Ken, you're a real pal. I'm sure I'll have a blast, but I might pester you for a few more pointers if I get in a jam. --Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Kelley Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 Hi guys, Thanks for the tips. The gun smithing site has a lot of abrasive and buffer type wheels. I didn't see any drive, tracking or contact wheels though. On-the-other-hand, Sunray has quite a reasonably priced selection. For instance here's an 8" wheel for $76, Sunray, Inc. - Detail. I know it wouldn't be in the same league as the $250+ ones, but hey, if these could work I might actually get this thing built. They have key slotted ones too that might could work for the drive wheel too. Anyone know what hardness the treads should be? Would I probably have to "turn" the surfaces a bit to get something like a slight convex shape? If so, could it be done by bolting the wheels on the grinder's drive shaft and using files and sandpaper? Does it matter whether the cores are steel or aluminum? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks, Phil Phil, I didn't notice until now that you asked questions about the drive and tension/tracking wheels. I believe that the wheels Tracy uses are from Rob Frink and if so, they are what I used on my KMG clone. Both wheels have definite convex peaks. One is 6 degrees and the other is 7, can't remember which is which. The surface of the wheels are also deeply grooved circumferentially to help keep the belts aligned. I have seen these wheels made from wood with good results. Shouldn't be too much of a trick to make some out of a close grained hardwood on the wood lathe. Others have used plain flat wheels and built the middles up with strips of tape to give them the convex peaks to keep the belts tracking. Machines like this are very forgiving. As long as you get close that's usually good enough. K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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