400 Blower Repairs

[SReynolds]

My experimentation was epic. Failure. The high speed shaft races are far too pitted. I tried the new ball bearing approach as the norm, but I need ear plugs when I rotate this thing. So plan B was the .015" oversized ball bearings. A big no go. They fit ok, if you readjust the location of the (high speed) shaft a bit to the back by 16th of an  inch to compensate for the larger bearings. But, with rust pits on the cone and outboard race, the noise is merciless. If you locate a reasonably quiet 400 gear set, buy it. Don't think twice. You ain't buying parts for these to make 'em quiet.

I will only add this; if you see one advertised as "turns free" that is in no way any indication of the high speed shaft races. This rotates almost FULL three revolutions all on its own. yet to listen to the howl is not something you'd want to endure.

[Bo T]

Considering the prices that many want for these, it beginning to make the new ones (light weigh, inexpensive) coming out of India appealing. Heck, they may only last 20 or 30 years but... Course they have some out of China that have been reported as pure junk.

Do you have any way to polish the races (High Speed????

[SReynolds]

I have read that. But no. The local machine shop said no. There is another smithing forum ( I know....) where guys report of restoring this one and that one. One fellow said yes. He mounted the shaft with the cone and polished on the lathe . But what about the race??? You do realize that if you replace a taper roller bearing cone and not the race you have accomplished nothing. So though he polished the cone with a stone, what about the race? Rust pits are rust pits. Gotta fix 'em all.

They are a quality blower, but......if it's bad you gotta turn the radio way up.

I plan to go through a Canedy Otto. They seem quiet when worn out. They clunk and feel loose, but not as noisy .At least not as bad as the 400 as they employ NO ball bearings and races. The inexpensive Champion blowers with no bearings are, as I have seen, very quiet. Even when rusty, on the inside. 

[turbo7]

Would it be worthwhile to get new cones and outer race turned? 

[SReynolds]

Not in MY hometown. They work for like; 110.00/hr. The upper cones/races seem far better. However, the rear, high speed shaft, has a much smaller set of bearings compared to the front and the upper shaft. That one seems rusted the worse and even though I could replace the front set with a set from a doner blower case, what about's the rear set? 

I don't know if the thread size of the shaft and bearing cone(s) exist any longer. It is nothing of this world. The cones thread on/off the shaft(s) to adjust the end thrust.

[turbo7]

Yeah, I need new cones (dont ask me how) -), I did find the thread info somewhere, cost here in Aus is prohibitive too, but a mate of mine is handy with a lathe. A fix for this would be nice. Possible to use un-threaded cone and lock-nut on the shaft nut? Your thoughts?

[SReynolds]

The jam nuts "set" the cones to the shaft. They tighten onto the shaft because the cones wont move.  Without locking parts to the shaft, parts will dislodge.

If you tried to use a jam nut and the cone was free-floating,  the jam nut wont do you anything but spin free and fall off locking the gear set/shaft.

[turbo7]

Yes, I was thinking more along the line of using a second lock nut on the shaft, exseive play will be taken out by the bearing at the other end, as per mormal. Only problem I can see is shaft turning in cone, dont want to have a wrecked shaft as well.

[SReynolds]

There isn't room for more jam nuts and yes; the race would spin free of the shaft.

[turbo7]

Ok, will see if I can track down the info on the threads.

[allessence]

I haven't had the 400 apart all the way.. But key thing is to keep them well lubed even in storage..  Sadly mine was dead quite with very little use on it and i didn't cover it one winter.. The next year it made noise.. not bad but still had bearing damage.