besserheimerphat Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 As I continue building up my forge, I'm wondering how people set up the nozzle penetration on their gas forges. I've read where some people have the nozzle completely penetrate the insulation by a fraction of an inch, whereas others only stick halfway through the insulation and then form the remaining insulation as a continuation of the nozzle flare. How have you done it, and what was your experience? The forge I'm building will use (2) 1" thick pieces of Kaowool for insulation, with rigidizer and IR coating. My burner will enter the cylindrical forge at about 45°, aimed at the soft firebrick floor (which I will also coat with IR goop). The body of the forge is a scrap propane tank, 12" diameter. If I stick the nozzle all the way through the insulation, it will hit the floor at 45° at a distance of about 7". I could pull the burner out of the forge an inch - so the nozzle only penetrates the outer layer of Kaowool, with the hole in the inner layer flared like the nozzle - but even with rigidizer I'm wondering if I'll end up eroding/blowing out a bunch of the insulation. What about the soft firebrick floor? I'm hoping that the jet impingement won't lead to significant erosion, but at least it will be easy to replace with something more robust if necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackKnight0739 Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 I've been told to never use IR coating on firebrick, which made sense to me given the fact that it's pretty porous. My forge is an old converted propane tank with 2" thick kaowool with IR coating and a firebrick for a floor (in retrospect, two 1" thick sheets of kaowool would do the trick better, so good decision there!). My burner is a T-burner designed by our very own Frosty and it's been working great (thanks again for all the help with it! Frosty!), with my burner nozzle inset about an inch into the wool, and angled 15 degrees from top dead center (TDC). There isn't as much erosion around the wool as you'd think, especially if you preform the wool beforehand. It's pretty malleable, and once you form it and hit it with rigidizer you'll be more than fine! I didn't use any rigidizer and it formed a flare pretty well for me! The brick will be fine too, I'd be more worried about your steel damaging it more than anything else. If you want to see any photos, I'll PM you some no problem (don't want to spam them here unless asked for). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlotte Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 My first experience with gas heating of steel was with high pressure natural gas feeding annealing furnaces. Those furnaces were designed so that there was a separation between the burner and the refectory, I install my burners so that there is a gap of about 1/16 inch between the brick and the burner. Even with that gap I often find myself replacing the last section of my burner due to melting at welding heat. Not saying that this is the way to do it. Just my experience and what I do as a result.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 there has been a fair amount written on burner blocks in the various threads available here, and there has been a fair amount written on burner ribbons here and elsewhere. Both devices have something in common; they both become super-heated flame nozzles; hint, hint... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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