Forge build from an LPG bottle

[Frozenthunderbolt]

Hi folks,

I built a forge from an LPG bottle today.

Link to my blogger page with the build log and photos here: My forge build.

I'd love any feedback

Next step - get a couple of drums and make a charcoal retort to feed it with. I've got heaps of fruit tree prunings, eucalyptus and alder to burn.

Bit of I-beam or railway track to keep me going till I can afford an anvil and I'll be underway!

Making a forge from an LPG bottle.

Haven't done any blacksmithing in a loooong time.
Wanted to make a forge to do it properly this time - so this is the build log for my forge.

 

 Starting with an old LPG cylinder.
Opened the valve wide; left for a week.
Removed the valve and filled with water (left overnight) to purge any gas pockets.
Emptied water and got the angle grinder ready

 Cut the bottom off with a fast-cut disk.

 Cut about 5 cm off the bottom piece - just past the shoulder to make it a smaller diameter in order to fit inside the gas bottle.

 Cut several slits in the bottom; this is going to be the grating in the bottom of the forge - the slits will let the air in from the blower to get the charcoal glowing hot.

 

 

 Cut several slits in the bottom; this is going to be the grating in the bottom of the forge - the slits will let the air in from the blower to get the charcoal glowing hot.

 Base plate in place - I'm going to leave it removable rather than adding refractory cement etc at this stage.

 Marked out the cutout for workpieces.

 Cut out the marked piece.

 Flipped upside down, welded on the two long legs and then ran out strapping.
I found a steel-strap carboy holder that put the forge at the right height when sitting on top of it.
The two legs fit through the lattice.
Welded on the cut out piece as a final short stabilizer.

 Checking to see if box section will work to make my air feed.
Note: Marked for blower feed extension.

 Cut the marked section and a center slit ready to burn outwards.

 Bent out the flaps.

 Checking the fit of the sections.
Note: The extra slit was to hold a removable metal piece to dump ashes. This design was later changed as seen below.

 Fitted to the carbouy rack.

 Mocked up with a hairdrier for a blower.
I will need to get a dimmer switch to wire inline to control the fan speed, and some ducting to get it further from the heat!

 Welded a bolt on the inside of the dropper tube.

Marked out the bottom cap on sheet metal taken from the side of a toaster.

 Cut, folded, drilled, fitted and nut in place.







 

All done!
Yet to fire it up, pictures when I get it fully finished and on fire!

From my reading, I'm thinking the following mods even before I fire it up:

- Take the bottom cap of the drop shaft and replace with the large bucket of water underneath for the air lock.

- Drop a few firebricks and some clay inside to make a better (smaller) space for a fire. (I'll only be doing small things to start until I have the skill to take on something bigger)

[Charles R. Stevens]

Stay away from the I beam, a cunk of solid, 2"+ shafting, or square makes a nice post anvil, a 3"x? Drop makes a nice block anvil. Look at a 2" solid draw bar from a truck hitch, those with the 3 balls work ok.

your forge is ok for coal, but your going to have to play and modify to get it to use charcoal effecently

An efenent charcoal fire is about 6" across, and if you arnt real conservitive with air will have to be deap (and inefecent) cut both ends out if a # 10 can and then cut sots in the sides to figure out hoe deap you need to build your fire with this forge. 

[Frosty]

Welcome aboard, glad to have you. If you'll put your general location in the header you might be surprised how many of the IFI gang live within visiting distance.

That is one SERIOUSLY OVER THOUGHT charcoal forge! If you'd cut the end off another inch deeper it'd make a nice small side draft forge pan for charcoal.

Search this site for the "55 forge" it'll serve you far FAR better. Take Charles advice about side draft and charcoal. I'm afraid what you put together would take longer for an experienced smith to learn to use than it'd take one of us to teach you to make and use an easier one.

I'm not trying to give you crap, we all over design things we don't really understand, it's human nature. We'd much rather you were successful than do it any one particular way other than safely that is. Another little bit of human and especially blacksmith nature the propane tank you cut up isn't waste even if it won't make a decent forge. One of our resident world class bladesmith made some beautiful pattern welded blade billets with propane tank steel and high carbon.

Frosty The Lucky.

[Frozenthunderbolt]

Here's my current set up:

 

- I got lent a a small Rail road track anvil to use until I can get something better. About 30cm from 'horn' to end, and 8cm wide.

 

 -  2kg brades ball pein hammer - just about killed me after the first hour, so I went to a carpenters hammer - much more accurate and I was good for another hour or two.

 

- Started with an ancient set of channel lock pliers, used them a while then pulled them apart and drew out the handles and adjusted the jaws - need to file a bit and drill out a new pivot hole tomorrow.

 

- Kept another smaller pair of channel locks to use in the mean time. Cant wait to make more, better tongs!

 

- Made a fire tool first (not very clear in this photo sorry) 

 

Fired up my LPG bottle forge today - used wood (bamboo and banksia). Had the wood 'coaking' in charcoal above the actual coals as I went.

 

- The slots I cut (see http://archaicjed.blogspot.co.nz/2015/07/making-forge-from-lpg-bottle.html) work perfectly to concentrate the air, and the hairdryers heating element burnt out after half an hour (which is better - i just need the fan!)

It kept perfectly cool thereafter.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A picture of the fire towards the end of the run. Sorry it's sideways it refuses to rotate!

Got things plenty hot in 1-2 minutes per heat, with 3 in the fire most of the time.

 

 

[Frosty]

Looking good there. That's WAY too heavy a hammer to learn with, find one in the 500-1,000gm range, 1,500 for a max till you develop some hammer control. Your work will go better and you won't hurt yourself. Keep that big thumper for special occasions, you'll need it  just not for general smithing.

Nice modification on the channel locks, that's the spirit. If something doesn't suit, get it hot and beat it till it does or you can toss it in the scrap.

No heat from blow driers, all it will do is raise your electric bill.

Frosty The Lucky.