Valth Posted May 23, 2014 Author Share Posted May 23, 2014 Ready to get off work and fire that bad boy up. Guess I'll try raising up my floor brick and see if that helps with my heat issue, maybe close off the back a little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 That's a good looking forge. I love to see well thought out and executed projects and that is darned well done. My impression is the doors are WAY too large, high especially. You will rarely if ever need an opening that allows work that fills 2 dimensions of the forge, width and height or length, etc. You will have pieces that exceed it's length so pass through doors are a big plus, requirement even. The inside dimensions are kind of large but two burners ought to handle it. It's the doors I think are keeping the temp below what it should be. Maybe try blocking half of the top of each or maybe all the back until you need the pass through. You can close the openings until back pressure begins to hinder burner performance. And that's what I do, start closing it up till the burners tell you to stop and open it up just a bit. Been working for me since my first forge. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valth Posted May 23, 2014 Author Share Posted May 23, 2014 Thank you frosty, I really like the forge, but I was thinking closing or reducing the size of one or both doors, does it have to be fire brick or would some red brick suffice as a temporary fix, I heard they crack and sometimes kind of blow up with to much heat, I've never seen it but I wouldn't doubt it. Another thing sometimes it seems like sputtering of the burner like the flame cutting in and out, I think it might just be the string west Texas wind blowing through the holes near the burner tips, any ideas or does my thought sound like it has merit? I think I may try and make a chisel or punch tonight. Kind of rigged up a piece of channel iron with a plate welded to the end of it that has a hole I haven't tried it but I thought it might make a makeshift Pritchell hole and making a hot cut chisel because my anvil doesn't have a hardy hole either for hardy tools. Really need to make some long handle tongs to fight that dragons breath haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 Red brick may work as a temporary experiment but it's not going to last long at hall, it's fire place brick, not furnace lining brick. I don't know about them exploding but crack and fall apart you betcha. With those big doors exhaust fumes could well be getting sucked into the air intakes of the burners making them sputter. It's a common thing, I had to make a sheet steel shield to keep exhaust and breezes from making my burners sputter. So, yes breezes do indeed tend to make burners sputter, especially home builds. Another good way to mount bottom tools on your anvil is to make saddle tools. Hot cuts that stretch the full width and have tabs that extend below the edge of the anvil to keep it in position work just fine. Anvil devils are hot or cold cuts that just lay on the anvil and can be darned useful because they don't take up much space. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valth Posted May 24, 2014 Author Share Posted May 24, 2014 Went for some tongs last night, didn't work to to well but I got the basic design and process. The bar I was using was possibly to small for the length I wanted in the handle, it was worked a little too thin and I warped the jaw and the boss was off some to. Starting raining again surprisingly to. After I cut it off I noticed some warping happening in the forge by where the burners bolt in, I then saw the wool was ever so slightly not covering on one side by the burner ends. I'm sure that those new openings don't help with heat or longevity of the forge, easy fix? Can I just tear some wool off of an overlapping area and put it around the burners and stuff it in the warped areas New openings? I used a brick on the back door to changing its position multiple times to try and build more heat it only got a little more hot this time, achieving just a slightly brighter orange but still not where it should be. I still wonder if I have enough gas going to the forge, I've been keeping it around ten to eleven psig still, it seems like that's where it should be based off the flame is a nice blue and the breath is blue with pinkish orange tips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valth Posted May 24, 2014 Author Share Posted May 24, 2014 Here's some more pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 Sure, chinking spots with Kaowool works just fine. Don't get hung up on what PSIG a forge is "supposed" to operate at. The only psig that counts is what yours operates at, there are too many variables to have "standard" settings. Those doors are huge, virtually the same size as the interior making it virtually an open forge. close those puppies down and turn the pressure up. Once you get the feel you'll wonder why tongs seemed hard to make. Warping is normal, just tweak them straight, 'n vever seen anyone make a pair of tongs that didn't need tweaking. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valth Posted May 25, 2014 Author Share Posted May 25, 2014 First couple of attempts at bottle openers and a small blade held in front of the thumb. Earthworm looking opener is no bueno lol not right now atleast it breaks bottles the other one works but not perfect, the bladewill be for my pops to show his other Viking reenactment guys haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valth Posted June 8, 2014 Author Share Posted June 8, 2014 Here's a wine holder that came up short haha, now it's a beer holder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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