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I Forge Iron

Coal vs. Gas


John Martin

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Might do a search for this one as it's discussed fairly frequently. Charcoal is the oldest (and responsible for the deforestation of some areas), then coal, then gas. Gas can be used easily in the city as it produces no smoke to attract the neighbors. All can be used efficiently if you take the time to learn how. Boils down to personal preference. Though at lunch time you can easily cook a nice steak on hardwood charcoal. properly insulated gas forges can easily obtain welding heat. When propane explodes it occupies 270 times the volume of the liquid. propane tanks can freeze when running some forges wide open, so you might have to put 2 or more together. coal is the easiest to use in my opinion. can leave it alone for 20 minutes without it going out. propane on the other hand, is a set it and forget it. easily maintains an even heat and you cna see your part at all times. Best to try them all and see where you fit in.

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I've tried multiple, and so far charcoal is the cheapest for me, but coal is hotter and doesn't require as much, im probably gonna by charcoal, coke, and coal and mix them together in my wood silo that will come into my shop so that i can use them all to obtain the best possible heat for me.

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Since all the patternwelded viking and traditional japanese swords were forgewelded in charcoal burning forges; if coal is "hotter" for you it is probably a function of forge design. Both coal and charcoal will get steel hot enough to burn after that Hotter is not so important to me.

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I use Propane, Coal and Charcoal: 2 propane forges-1 blown, 1 aspirated; 1 large coal forge, 1 medium coal/charcoal forge, (I have a NG one as well but we don't get NG out here so it sits in the corner...) and I have been know to build a mud/rock forge for charcoal for doing Y1K LH work

Forges are like salted peanuts---You can't have just one!

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"Lower heat"? say what? size is NOT what controls the heat. design, fuel and air is what controls the heat. I've forge welded in a fire that was about 1 quart in size and barely heated steel in my forge that is 40" by 40" on a side (It's previous owner burnt railroad rails in two by accident in it).

Say smaller fire; not lower heat!

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If you plan to teach there is a lot to be said about using propane forges. Students can concentrate on working hot steel rather than on fire control and pieces don't burn up like they can in coal. *You* can concentrate on what they are doing rather than babysitting several coal fires.

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Well said Thomas, but I'd add an extra lesson along the line to introduce them to the 'other' forging feuls available. After all knowing whats on offer and how each one works is the only way for any student to make an informed choice on what would ultimately be best to use themselves in their own forge.

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I agree that every smith should be familiar with the various options; however most folk I know don't learn to ride on a bucking bronc---they learn on an easy to ride horse and progress onto bronc riding...

I've taught a passle of folks on coal/charcoal and I think everyone of them has burnt up a pretty nice piece they were nearly done with. it got so that for bladesmithing I would always have them cut their stock twice as long as needed, knowing that they would need the extra length.

If you do start them out with coal I'd go with what SOFA has on their forges. A foot switch that only keeps the blower on while they are stepping on it saves coal and steel!

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