Bear Posted November 20, 2008 Share Posted November 20, 2008 Boeing's LPS3 and a little Japan Drier LPS 3 Heavy-Duty Inhibitor is a specially formulated long term corrosion inhibitor which will protect metal parts stored indoors for up to two years. When applied it forms a soft, transparent, waxy film which acts as an effective barrier sealing out moisture, air, acid, alkali fumes and other corrosive elements. Flash Point: 100 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L.Stanley Posted November 27, 2008 Share Posted November 27, 2008 Would these suggestions apply to a rust finish patina? I have a heavy indoor pot rack that a friend wants a rust finish on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ice Czar Posted November 29, 2008 Share Posted November 29, 2008 Is this boe-shield? Sean Boeshield T-9 is basically the same stuff I think Would these suggestions apply to a rust finish patina? I have a heavy indoor pot rack that a friend wants a rust finish on. mine were, the T-9LPS3 + Japan drier was just employed on fireplace screens however (and darken rust patinas quite alot, they are lightly baked in with a weedburner to the point they just start smoking) whereas Vanex Break-Through was applied for interior and exterior rust patinas, it also darkens the rust a bit but not nearly as much as the oil based they also got applied to brassed mild steel, cold blued steel, and polished mild steel, there are some pics in my gallery of varigated rust panels with Vanex applied Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L.Stanley Posted November 30, 2008 Share Posted November 30, 2008 Thanks a lot I'll give that a try! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptree Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 For food service I use spray food oil in a rattle can on demos as it stays clean. One offs in the shop get the same. If I have a big project, say 40 cheese slicers, I use a clean rag and olive oil, and then burn the used rag in the forge for safety. I instruct the customers to treat the item "Just like Grandma's cast iron skillet" IE. wash by hand, dry by hand asap and wipe with a little oil from time to time. On general items I have used a mix of Johnson's paste wax, turpentine, linseed oil and a little Japan dryer. NOTE, Japan Dryer is NOT FOOD SAFE. Works well. smells nice. I also use beeswax straight. For outdoor paint I do not use epoxies as they chalk in a couple of years according to my paint supplier. I use alkyed enamel or polyurathane enamel for bigger projects. For small projects I have found that "Toughcoat" acrylic enamel in rattle cans is the best. Sprays nicly from a premium sray button, drys quickly and covers very well. I use the red oxide, and then "Max Flat Black" as the finish coat. Lasts for several years outdoors in the sun. Looks very rich and deep. As always surface prep is key. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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