Glut weld problem

[HWooldridge]

I normally make andirons with a glut weld. Cut almost thru a bar (3/4" square in this case), fold the inside to a 90 and weld a separate block into the outside corner. I have an order to make a pair so I went at it tonight but had a heckuva time. Now, I typically knock the corners off the glut piece but this time, I left it square so it could only touch on one side or the other - not both at the same time because the cut on the parent stock is never square so the open angle is about 120 degrees. What happened was that it would stick on one side and then pull loose on the other. I fought this all night and finally got everything to close up and stick but only after about 6-7 welding heats per leg! I can usually do it in one welding heat.

They look OK but I may remake them just because I'm a bit PO'd and want to figure out what I did wrong.

What I think happened is that the filler piece had too far to move and I should have made the pieces fit closer before welding. Does anybody here make a similar weld and how do you do it?

[Jymm Hoffman]

HW, if you have done this lots of times before, it could be a wierd batch of steel. I have had that happen to me. Or you looked at it cross eyed, or your flux got a little dirty, and it could have been just a bad day for you.

[irnsrgn]

FWIW - Might be a case of too much flux also, most people have a tendency to use too much, just enough to make the metal look wet is about right, too much flux and not shaking it out or otherwise removing it can be a real pain when welding.

Could be joint prep, to flat with not enough slope or taper to let the flux squeeze out.

The Andirons I have made I have used old wrought wagon tire iron, and punched the upright and tenoned the bottom piece into it and Bradded the front of the tenon then finished with decorative hammer strokes. Wrought lasts much longer when used to make Andirons that are actually used a lot as has no carbon to flake off and deteriorate.

Almost all the modern mild stock will have hard spots and places where the scrap in the remelt process has not mixed with the rest of the batch, I could be something that wouldn't weld well in the first place.

But, Most importantly did you have your anvil horn orientated to true north and did you clench your tongue between your teeth with just a bit sticking past your lips to collect any stray hot flux and or flying scale. Remember how well those sticky fly strips work, your head suddenly hot or cold and there is the cap keeping flies company on the sticky strip, and of course raising the long piece and swinging it around to put the other end in the forge and all of a sudden it has a decorative streamer attached.

[Dutchmancreek]

I usually try to clean off any mill scale from the area where the weld will be made, if I'm using new stock. I also try to use the minimum flux.

I also can't weld unless I'm wearing my lucky Cleveland Browns cap and have my socks inside out.

Steve

[HWooldridge]

Ok - this is what I meant to convey in the first note. The fitup of the two pieces has to be pretty close with square edges. This one welded up in one try. The second one (not shown) was not fitted so closely so it pulled away when I tried to bring the legs back to 90 degrees. In other words, it stuck good enough that the seam disappeared but still pulled loose. After the first stick, I hit a welding heat four more times and it pulled loose every time. I quit for the night and will complete a second one tomorrow.

My conclusion is that you need to get this dry fitted pretty close before taking the welding heat or you may wind up frustrated like I was.