John B Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 We held a forgewelding course for beginners last Saturday and Sunday, On Saturday students were introduced to the process with some simple practice welds and then produced a log poker/roller This comprised a faggot weld for the hook end, this then had a drop welded piece welded to the end to give it bulk, then forged to consolidate scarfed joints and forged to shape, A basket cage was then made, firewelded to the stem, and a collar firewelded onto the end forged into a ball (or cube) the cage then opened up (or not) to form the handle as in this one made by the youngster on the course (aged 16) Some then added a twist to the centre for decoration. Then on the Sunday they were shown how to make and assemble chain links To give them a feel for tool steel forgewelding, they made an axehead from an old farriers rasp Fitted one with an old damaged hammer shaft to just test it out on some timber, Job successful. All on the course were new to this experience, and no fluxes used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Olivo Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 Looks like a really good layout for teaching it. Nice job. How does the front of the eye look. Usually the part I have had problems with. I think I have figured out how to fix that problem. They must have been happy to walk away with all that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel OF Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 I need to make the pilgrimage to Westpoint Forge one day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted December 13, 2013 Author Share Posted December 13, 2013 Looks like a really good layout for teaching it. Nice job. How does the front of the eye look. Usually the part I have had problems with. I think I have figured out how to fix that problem. They must have been happy to walk away with all that. The eye is teardrop shaped, sorry I have no pictures, and I have no sample to show or photograph, the reason being after they had experienced the firewelding process, I wanted to introduce the difference between low carbon/mild steel welding, and the relatively easier high carbon steel welding, so I just talked them through the teqhnique when using a file then supervised one being made, and the others then went and had a go, the one pictured is a students, after I had shown them how to harden and temper the edge my way on this particular one. For those interested in the method; Tools needed; hammer, anvil, hotcut/hardie, farriers rasp, suitable side bit tongs, wire brush Method; Hot cut off the tang end Heat around the centre of the remaining section and bend over off centre, into the shape of a U, leaving one side approximately 1" longer than the other, and the to be eye of the U slightly plus on the size of the handle/eye you wish to use, and just close the open end to touch at the overlap Switch the holding end and heat the to be edge end, when doing this, rotate in fire and ensure both pieces are to a high, but not welding heat,clean off any scale, then forge the extended overlap back onto the other side, enclosing it. This gives a central core that is already preheated Put back in fire and bring to a welding heat, start in the centre at the end and using light blows start the weld, Bring back to welding heat and consolidate then repeat working back from front and centre until you have a full weld the length of the blade to the eye. Now it's a solid mass, forge the blade to the shape you require, use a hot file/rasp to put on an edge and get a smooth finish for hardening and tempering, check eye is centralised, and adjust if necessary. Bring blade end to upper critical heat, quench this end in oil, remove whilst still hot, polish the to be cutting edge, watch for your required tempering colour to leach back to the edge, when the colour reaches the edge, then insert the edge and an inch back of the blade into the oil, leave in this position and allow the temper to set, remove from oil when item is below tempering heat, cool and clean up to desired level of finish. Hone/sharpen edge to required degree and purpose Make and fit your handle to the eye, and if you forge the rough side of the rasp into the inside of the eye the teeth will grip the handle and help secure it. Hope this is understandable and of help. No flux was used, but that's your choice, and not essential. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Budd Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 all very nice work :) And no flux used! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Olivo Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 I see now you just wrapped and welded. The ones I have done I folded over one end and then bent for the eye and then welded. This gave me more mass to draw for the beard but the front of the eye is always a problem that I think I have only now got a handle on. I will have to try just a wrap and weld on the next one when somer is here and I can drag out the forge again. Thanks for sharing the process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted December 13, 2013 Author Share Posted December 13, 2013 I see now you just wrapped and welded. The ones I have done I folded over one end and then bent for the eye and then welded. This gave me more mass to draw for the beard but the front of the eye is always a problem that I think I have only now got a handle on. I will have to try just a wrap and weld on the next one when somer is here and I can drag out the forge again. Thanks for sharing the process. Hi Stephen, you get more mass for the beard with the fold over the end, in effect tripling the thickness available to spread, you can also upset the edge some to gain even more bulk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Olivo Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 No I know. Mine have been 3 layers of rasp for the blade section. We just have slightly different ways of going about it is all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted December 14, 2013 Author Share Posted December 14, 2013 No I know. Mine have been 3 layers of rasp for the blade section. We just have slightly different ways of going about it is all. Yes I agree, technically achieve the same result, To clarify the reason I do it the way I described is that you then have a solid cutting edge irrespective of if it is a good fireweld or not, also less chance of getting it too hot at the edge and burning out the carbon during welding, as the finished form and shape is forged after all the blade section is welded towards the eye. Its just a quick and easy way to make a usable axe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Olivo Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 I can see why you would use that way especially with beginners. I will have to try that and some other things when I get the chance to forge again. Thanks. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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