I've got 200+ leaves to make for a project. using 5/8 dia round. I am experiencing cold shunts on the drawn tips that I don't see on my smaller points. I don't want to resort to rasping each point. I am working the steel at a high yellow and not past a low orange. I keep thinking it is a technique issue. It is too easy to blame the material. anyone like to edumacate me as to the problem?:confused:

Hand or power hammer? Is the end of the round stock folding over as you point it? You may have to round the edges first before you do the point. Just a thought.

John

I think I have an idea what may be happening and how to fix If you would post a couple of clear close up pics it would make it easier to see what the actual problem is..If you cannot post pics a nice drawing to illustrate the issue would work.

When I use round stock for leaves I always form a pyramid on the section that will be the leaf--short for rounded leaves--a little longer for more tapered ones. The tip is tapered down to a point on the top end and both sides. The pyramid is fullered over the far edge of the anvil on both sides and the top at a distance a little shorter than what the leaf length will be. I start the flatening hitting the top of the pyramid first with the flat of the hammer and draw out by using the cross pien almost straight across for a long leaf or at about a 45 angle toward the wide end of the leaf working both sides to keep it even on the stem for a fatter leaf. I've made curved end chisels for the veins and use a wide chisel for the center vein. I use both chisels with the leaf clamped in the vise. For rose leaves I make the small cuts in the edge--take a heat and on the horn lightly work the edge to soften the chisel effect. Most folks will have a technique that works best for them. I've tried the folded leaves that take more time and make beautiful leaves after practice but I make a lot and what I've described is "my way". I hope it helps.