Iron123 Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 Hey guys in the group and everybody else who is interested this is sort of a follow up to my other post about the anvil repair back in July anyway frosty got it welded up and fixed and all that good stuff and now he is gonna do a before and after on it and I'm gonna go and pick it up on Friday. But anyway I just wanted to do a quick little update on the progress of it from my end. frosty's post I'm pretty sure is gonna be really in depth and cool so keep an eye out for his post. Hehe so exciting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 Pictures Eric, where are the pictures? In depth AND cool? I'm thinking I'm going to hire you as a script writer. <grin> Locate the pics and either send me a couple or link me please. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 Pictures Eric, where are the pictures? In depth AND cool? I'm thinking I'm going to hire you as a script writer. <grin> Locate the pics and either send me a couple or link me please. Frosty The Lucky. Okay, so I found the pics in the OTHER anvil repair thread. We'll see how repaired you think your anvil is when you get a look. At least I didn't make it worse, provided the heat treat held in the HAZ. (Heat Affect Zone) I've still got a little grinding left and I'll shoot a couple pics. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron123 Posted August 13, 2013 Author Share Posted August 13, 2013 Hehe sweet frosty I just sent you the pics from when I took them but whatever works. anyway thanks frosty can't wait to se the pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron123 Posted August 20, 2013 Author Share Posted August 20, 2013 hey guys sorry for the wait but here are the pictures of the repaired anvil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron123 Posted August 20, 2013 Author Share Posted August 20, 2013 sorry if they are upside down im working on a different slower computer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 Okay, here's the skinny on what I did and why. Eric has a Trenton Anvil about 150lbs +/- and it's edges were beat up pretty badly. Some chips about mid waist were more than an inch, top and down the sides. However, grinding to look for cracks and chips revealed pretty sound steel so I cleaned it up and tried defining sharp edges where some grinding had beveled the face down towards the breaks. Yeah, the face sloped down to the breaks so I needed to grind more off or try dealing with feathering the edges with welding rod. <sigh> Probably the biggest hassle was waiting for rainy day to lift the burn ban, I just don't want to be THAT guy. So, we got some rain and I got to work. Stoody welding rod isn't an off the shelf rod around here anymore, sure they'll order you some but not for reasonable. I did some rsearching and desided the closest I was going to come without spending WAY too much was Washington Alloy 700 hard facing rod. It's a metal on rock rod so it's a long way from brittle in use. I cut about 14" off the end of a 55gl. drum, laid some 2" sq tubing rems in the bottom to hold the anvil off the bottom, poured 20lbs. of charcoal on a wood kindling fire and sat back to wait. Another bag of charcoal later the 400f Tempi stick said READY. so I pulled Mr. Trenton out and cleaned the breaks with the twisted wire brush in a peanut grinder. Started p my welder and got to running beads. The large sections of chipping were deep enough I was afraid I wouldn't get it to the edge line in two passes and in fact had to lay a third in a couple places. Again, the real PITA was getting the taper ground into the face cleaned up without the rod undercutting and as it turned out I couldn't without just overlaying the whole anvil face. So, those are the little uglies on the face. I wasn't willing to hard face the whole face OR grind another 1/8" off it to get rid of them. Undercutting on a finished piece I did. I hang my head in shame. Anyway, she's in better shape than I got her. The beads are sound and take a hammer blow without denting. The Washington alloy will work harden to around RC50+/-. The final grade is Eric's to judge. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSW Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 Interesting. Stoody makes some good rods, but I've never run that one. I would have liked to have seen a few before picts to get an idea of the damaged areas. Charcoal preheat wouldn't have really occurred to me. Usually when I've seen the need to preheat something, it's done with big propane weed burners, often with some sort of "shield" and blankets to help hold in the heat. With heavily damaged areas requiring buildup, especially with very fluid rods like many hard facing rods are, we usually tacked up a backing "dam" on the side to help hold in the material and then gouged or ground off the backing strip when done. If need be the backing was set back some so that after cleanup you didn't have much if any dilution of the weld material from the backer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron123 Posted August 21, 2013 Author Share Posted August 21, 2013 The pics are in my other anvil repair thread just go to the main topic menu thingy and click anvil repair it was posted up I think in July Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 This wasn't Stoody rod, it is Washington Alloy 700. It isn't as fluid as some I've run but all the hard facing I've done before was either on Drill auger or the bits so flexibility was important. We used to use Eutectic Ultimium but by time our last box ran dry it was running some $110/lb. so it wasn't on the play list anymore. What we settled on was Lincore 50, flux core wire and if I could've bought it in 10lb spools that's what I would've run. I would've liked to use chill plates but none are available around here, maybe in Fairbanks but I would've had to order them. If I could've got 1" sq copper I would've repaired the hardy hole. At any rate they would've been mail order and wait items. I'm still not sure how chill plates would've prevented undercutting with this rod. The stuff undercuts like it was designed to. Really nice build up beads though. I really screwed up not practicing with it first. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron123 Posted August 21, 2013 Author Share Posted August 21, 2013 Whatever the rod it was a good repair frosty and is really working for me. I got to forge a little but sticking to small things since I'm movin but once I get to Arizona I'm going all out as far as forging things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 It's good to hear it's working Eric. The rod will work harden so it will get better, just try not to hit it directly with the hammer till it hardens up a little. If you want to radius the edges more, start with the grinder at 45*, then take the resultant corners down. do this a little at a time till it's close to what you want, THEN finish rounding the corner. take it a little at a time. It'll take a while to get used to the weather in Arizona but once you adapt you'll love it there. Lots of cool stuff to see and plenty of blacksmiths to visit. They're good guys. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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