I am wanting to build a appalachian power hammer but i want to make it tire drive for the flywheel effect! I have seen some pictures of how these are set up but i cant seem to locate them now. Does anyone have a picture of the tire mounting and the rod drive design? I assume its a hub on one side and the rod on the cam on the other side? I wasnt sure how to mount to make the cam and rod clear either the hub on one side or the motor on the other side! Whats the best approach?

Check the videos on the Rusty hammer site. The one your thinking of is in OZ.

Doc, whats the Rusty hammer site?

If you start watching at about 4:22, you can see how my hammer's clutch is set up.

 

Try this link it has some pics. Apparently they no longer have the videos. Sadly the pics don't give as much detail as the vids did.

 

http://www.appaltree.net/rusty/GALLERY.htm

Thanks Storm crow thats even the hammer i was thinking of! Awesome power hammer and thank you for the info and ideas

You're welcome.  A lot of the ideas came from Ptree.  His hammer can be found over on Anvilfire's power hammer page, and he hangs around here as well.  Or has in the past, at least.

 

The biggest change I'd make to my hammer at this point (which I'll do sometime in the future) is to add adjustment bolts to the ram guide to be able to take out any slop.  If you follow the link that Doc provided and go through the slideshow, the second picture from George Angelakos from Australia shows pretty well what I'm talking about.

I built a spring helve in 2002. I have modified to a tire clutch and found that Made the hammer. I started at 32# and the belt drive sorta worked. When I went to 45# I started to smell burning rubber. I used the rear spindle from a 1990 Gran Voyager and compact spare from same. You get a mounted set of tapered roller bearings with seals and the unit is bolted to the axle. If getting the bearing hub assy from a junkyard get both sides as they usually want to sell a pair anyway. Get the bolts as they are metric. Get both a compact spare and a rim from a standard wheel. New at Autozone i have bought these for about $85 each, at the yard here in S. Indiana a couple of years ago a pair for $40

I mounted the hub bearing assenbly, and I burned the center out of the other rim. I welded my pivot mount to the center and then just used the lugs to hold both the center and the compact spare to the hub. I did remove the brake drum and backing plate. The drive wheel on the motor is steel, and just "as turned" Don't knurl the drive wheel as that both eats the tread off the spare tire and removes the slip that is need for controlability. I think my drive is a about 3" OD on a 3750 motor. I used a wind brace turnbuckle, about 7/8" thread. It is now after 11 years starting to get a little sloppy, so I intend to buy a bigger, say 1.25" off the internet, they are surprisingly cheap. My motor is on a pivot, springs hold it off the tire and a treadle pulls the motor against the tire. I welded a hunk of steel to the center, then drilled and tapped for a shoulder bolt for my lower pittman. I welded a hunk of plain steel to the turnbuckle and bored to slip fit on the shoulder bolt. I also drilled and zirked every moving part on the pitman and spring pivot as well as the rollers on the now 70# ram. I use automotive moly grease, and all of the pivots are like when I made them. The center spring pivot is a rear cap with pivot off a hydraulic cylinder. The spring is clamped to it by a top plate and 4 bolts just as on an axle.

A computer crash cost me the photo's maybe I can get some this weekend.

Thanks, Doc, Stormcrow, and Ptree! Ptree is your motor direct to the tire at 3750rpm? If so whats your bpm?

Photos at www.forgewest.com in the gallery under Jeff Reinhardt

I have a 2" drive wheel running against a 20" spare tire and gives a theoritical 174 blows per minute. Slippage etc probably gives a 160BPM at max. I almost never runn max, since I like the control at slower hits. With the combo dies I built I have an aggressive fuller an almost flat sevtion and a parabolic section for squirting blades out of 5/8" square and rasps. Works for me.

Photos at www.forgewest.com in the gallery under Jeff Reinhardt

At farwestforge.com ptree  :rolleyes:  
Here Scrap rat, scroll down and click on Jeff Reinhardt  ;)

Thanks for posting an easy link Mike.