This is the first time I've considered working with tool steel and I was wondering how best to proceed. The other day, I got a very good deal on an 87 pound round of 8620 steel. It measures 4.25" in diameter and is 9.50" tall. I was thinking of using it as a portable pounding/shaping surface.

   I know this steel is often case hardened, but I don't yet know it it's annealed, hardened, tempered. It's been around for awhile. Just this morning I managed to remove the rust pitting and something that looked like fairly thick millscale. That seems to tell me this has been through some sort of heating process. I can ask the people where I bought it how they sell this type of steel. I can also tap away on it with a hammer and see if it dents. As you can see, I don't really know squat. Almost everything I learn comes from making mistakes and this looks like an opportunity to learn a lot.

ToolSteel

http://www.speedymetals.com/information/Material41.html

 

http://www.interlloy.com.au/our-products/case-hardening-steels/8620-case-hardening-steel/

 

http://www.suppliersonline.com/propertypages/8620.asp

Technically it is an alloy steel, not a tool steel.

That said, it forges like a dream. I like it for just about any sort of blacksmithing tool. Tongs are great. I'ved used it for rivet sets as well. Grant used to use it for jackhammer bits but I found it a little soft for my taste unless you case harden it. The .020 of carbon means it has less than mild steel. It does case harden very well.  The best thing about it is it is CHEAP. 2$/lb at online metals. I got a big 40lb bar of it for 83$

I hope you have access to a big hammer/press. Something that size will be fun to knock down into usable size.

I'd quibble that 20 points carbon *is* mild steel and it has less than A36 which in my mind should NOT be called mild steel.

 

Traditionally "mild steel" was 1018 or 1020.

 

Sounds like a great anvil block and it will work harden with use or you can just grind it clean every now and then.!