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I Forge Iron

question about tangs


WraithsNinja

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I feel that  a blade is more likely to fail at the transition between the hardened sections and the non hardened sections.  So I am carefull about  when I choose to do that, I prefer to fully harden and differentially temper the tang dead soft.  But also remember the japanesse have been doing differential hardening for centuries, and they seem happy with it, so I cant say 100% that its wrong to do it either..

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The tang is the weakest poin of the blade, also takes the most force.  With steel, hard is brittle soft is strong.  It doesn't take too long to find blades that broke at the point where the tang and blade meet.  Why, usually poor design and a tang that has been hardened.  The master bladesmith knows how to get the most from the steel he works with and can use that to his advantage.  Part of that is a tang that isn't hardened.

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Harden and extra temper the tang up and slightly past the ricasso shoulders.

Sam has it right. I have been making practice swords for full contact fighters for some years and I have to say that it is impossible to make some tecniques especially from german sword fighting between 1400 - 1500 without an hardened tang. Some kind of movements make your tang bend exactly under the hilt if it is not hardened (the tang). Although, the HT has to be softer right after the ricasso shoulders or it will break there. Plus, remember to have no sharp corner between the tang and the blade because that will cause a crack.

Francesco
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I mostly build brush choppers and not killamajiggers, but they take plenty of force impacting seasoned oak.  I leave tangs unhardened, immersion quenching point-down, but I move the blade up and down as I quench, leaving glowing red steel above the level of the oil.  That way I don't get a sharp delineation in hardness, but a gradually changing hardness from the base of the blade to a few inches up the tang.  Of course, most of my tangs are actually integral socket handles.  :)

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