ironconcepts Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 A good friend of mine gave me this anvil after his father passed away...I am assuming its a trenton?.the weight appears to be 150# due to the front bottom left being stamped "150". The serial # on the bottom right is "A152420" - maybe made in the early twenties?? You also can barely make out part of ACME on the drivers side..it looks like someone used it for 2000 years for coldwork only on every square inch of the anvil...soooooo...whats the best way to remove whats left of the face? Then flatten and weld on tool steel plate, 1/2" high impact? What type would that be? And can I mig or should it be stick only? What wire or electrodes work best? Whats the best temp(s) for the pre and post heat? Any help would be MUCH appreciated..now im attempting to upload the photos... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frozenforge Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 You are correct it is a Trenton made for Sears thus the ACME logo. Made in 1917. It would be impractical to replace the whole face duplicating the way it was made. Search e forum for anvil repairs and you will find much information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironconcepts Posted March 25, 2013 Author Share Posted March 25, 2013 Would you mine explaining the reason it would be impractical? I have the tools necessary I just need to know the correct method and materials. Yes, I am still combing through these posts for my answers, but there's tons of info to go through, thought somebody out there my be able to speed up the process for me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry W. Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 ironconcepts, A good friend of mine has repaired several anvils in this way. If you will email me the pics and your questions, I would be happy to forward them to him. My email address is jerry.whitley@ymail.com Two of them were in Marble Falls, Texas last week for our Thursday and Friday classes with Mark Aspery. They are holding up very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel.85 Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 Looks like this one. good luck http://www.ebay.com/itm/IRON-ANTIQUE-ANVIL-BLACKSMITH-CHRISTMAS-shiner-tx-dullo-/360602489936?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&nma=true&si=aFwMu68gRBV2m6euxgp%252FwywOZs8%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frozenforge Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 I assumed you were talking about forgewelding the entire faceplate on at one time like they did when it was made. That would require heating both the anvil base and tool steel plate to forge welding temps then a BIG hammer to join them. If you are thinking about welding the plate on around its edge that would create dead area through out the center and wouldperform poorly. I have read about a couple other methods in the forum but am not sure of the success rate and performance after the repair. Jerry please post a brief description of the repair method, sounds interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frozenforge Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 Had to refresh my memory, do a google search on anvil restoration and you will find the Gunther process under the search result from Anvil Magazine Online. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironconcepts Posted March 26, 2013 Author Share Posted March 26, 2013 Guys thanks for all the info im gonna start absorbing it all....im leaning towards bolting down the face but I cant find much info on it...any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironconcepts Posted March 26, 2013 Author Share Posted March 26, 2013 And thanks jerry, ill get the pics mailed to you tomorrow. .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 I've known several smiths who have tried bolting on a replacement face after milling both pieces flat. None of them have been real happy with the results. (Patrick you want to chime in on this?) A full penetration weld is required to get a good face---or a pretty massive build up properly done. (generally cheaper to get an anvil with a better face) You could use a chunk of steel for an anvil and save that one for the horn and hardy uses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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