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I Forge Iron

Pics of my melting set - up. Feedback?


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I'm putting the finishing touches on my foundry and before I fire her up, I was hoping someone with more experience (more than my none) would take a quick look and point out any of the -- certainly many -- flaws.

 

The specs:

Made from a discarded Semi's brake drum

Filled with MEECO'S Red Devil refractory cement

2 inch hole drilled at a slight angle at the bottom

To be fueled with natural charcoal

Air pushed with hair dryer, until I can figure out how to mount an old crank blower

 

End goal: Melting copper

 

Method: Fill the bottom with a couple of inches of charcoal, light them and establish a good bed of coals; put in my graphite crucible with copper scrap in the center; pack the walls with more charcoal; close it up; start up the blower; add more charcoal as needed; wait-for-longer-than-you'd-think (20 - 30 min.?); bask in the glow of liquid copper and a job well done.

 

Please don't worry about hurting my feelings.

 

I'll start with the obvious: "MOVE THE PROPANE TANKS AWAY!"IMG_6578.jpgIMG_6577.jpgIMG_6574.jpgThanks!IMG_6576.jpg

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What is that corrugated tube made out of? It has been years since I have done a charcoal melt but it takes a goodly amount of the stuff to do that depending on the size of the crucible, if it one that holds a couple of pounds not that much but say 10 pounds and that's a lot of charcoal. You have propane bottles there so why not make a propane burner, get a shop vac and use the discharge side for an air supply and then you can do a really decent sized melt of brass, bronze or aluminum. If it were me I'd just trade my scrap copper for some new stuff that is already milled to the size I want. Now if you are just messing around to experiment have a good time but please be careful molten metal will scar you for life and the burns from it take a really long time to heal. It doesn't just burn the skin, it goes bone deep when it burns. It only quenches in blood and muscle.

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I am aware of the japanese water casting, but I am not sure of the volume of water needed for a few pounds of copper to be cast.  In addition it gets the scraps into a billet, not a real shape like sand casting does.  Good for getting a puddle that is ready for rolling into sheets.

 

I also advise you start with Aluminum rather than Copper for learning. Copper is tricky to cast. This will reduce the risk of failures until you get a handle on things. Also be aware of the floor material, concrete holds much moisture and will explode with a spill.

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The concrete will release it's moisture as steam and that will cause the metal to splatter and spray all over the place, Boy is that ever fun!! Not really but it sure gets you moving fast. Be sure to were leather boots, use duct tape on the laces of your boots(helps keep tiny splatters out of the laces), full leathers, face shield, cap and cotton clothing(it doesn't melt only burns). I have watched the video a time or two with them pouring the copper into the water on to a piece of fabric and it is amazing and so is the video on them making brass blanks for cymbals by pouring the metal into cast iron moulds filled with water. I tell you that it looked like molten brass should have sprayed the room but it didn't, just really hot water and steam. I do everything possible to keep moisture away from my molten metal but here these Turks are just pouring away without a care in the world and just about in street clothes only.

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I do quit alot of bronze casting, I find it takes 30 mins to melt 8 KGS of bronze in my small furnace and nealy 1 hour with 40 KGS in the big furnace both running on LPG naturally aspirated burners, i tryed melting copper but it didn't work, not hot enough.

 

If you found a better blower you might have more luck.

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