coldironkilz Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 I am seeking suggestions regarding the texturing of sq. tubing. I have no particular texture in mind though it may help if you know that this particular project is intended to reside in the garden. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
son_of_bluegrass Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 Are you looking for ways to texture while maintaining square? Or are you looking for suggestions for a texture? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldironkilz Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 Well, it's not essential to maintain sq. Your second question causes me to scratch my head a little. Would you address both issues? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Evers Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 I've seen some stuff textured with an arc welder, think I can find pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 No matter what size you use, the heavier the wall the better, assuming you need to hammer texture it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldironkilz Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 Thank you! I'll try to explain my project a little more clearly. I am thinking of a garden accent. I am thinking of a staff not unlike a shepherds staff (less the crook). I am thinking of half inch sq tube. I am thinking of using half inch sq bar stock to incorperate various twists (elements) becoming more complicated as you ascend the staff, perhaps every six or eight inches. My thoughts are if I use sq tubing between each element; the piece will be a little lighter as well as less expensive. However the sq tube if not textured (somehow) seemed a little boreing to me. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 For 1/2" square stock, weight saving would be minimal, and time taken to weld/blend would probably take longer than just to put work the original bar, If you are attempting to isolate each element of your increasingly complicated twists/textures, you will tend to lose these if the intermediary connecting sections are also textured. In your situation (and I am no artist) I would be tempted to start and work the bar from one end and progress organically, you will then get a feel for what you want to do as it progresses. Either plan it on paper first, or just go for it. Have fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldironkilz Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 Thank you for the thoughtful suggestions. I will put them to practice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Furrer Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 Square tube costs more from my supplier in small sections than solid so no cost savings. Solid is easier to forge and twist as it will no collapse and the slight change in resistance to the twist is nothing to be concerned with. I would use hollow bar only if you needed the hollow (lamps with a cord) or larger sizes (above 1" say) where weight savings actually comes into play. Ric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Coke Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 Square tube has rounded edges unlike square bar... mixing the two stinks... You can get some nice texture on solid square bar cold.. Ive done it a thousand times under the power hammer ... Take a rounding hammer and a 1/2 by 1/2 place it on a 1 inch round bar and have at it... Good luck Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldironkilz Posted February 12, 2013 Author Share Posted February 12, 2013 Thanks, Jim, thanks Ric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanBrassaw Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 This is a timely thread. I'm planning on making a rather massive bird feeder hanger, approximately 7' tall, with a 16" arm for the feeder to hang from. My plan was to use 1" x 1/8" square tubing for the majority of the vertical piece, welding in a portion at the 6' height for a punched hole for the 1/2" square solid hanger bar, as well as a finial welded on the top. Scrolls will connect the top of the horizontal piece to top portion of the upright. I imagine it will look more like a sign hanger than a feeder hanger. I was thinking about incorporating some twists in the tubing lower down just to add interest. Having never done this before, I'll just take a scrap and try it to see how much the sides sink in during the twist. If I remember, I'll try to take some pictures so the OP can see what the outcome might be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Coke Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 Greetings Dan, Ya got some problems comming.... First puntching sgare tube for a square hole will make a mess.... I suggest drilling a 1/2 hole and file the rest to square. It will take about 5 min... Square tube if you don't seal the top rain will soon fill the tube and rust from the inside... If you try to twist 1/8 square tube it again will make a bigger mess.... You must collapse the center and controll the heat at the point you hold it... Enclosed a flick of twisted tube over the top gothic door pull... I hope this helps.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanBrassaw Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 Greetings Dan, Ya got some problems comming.... First puntching sgare tube for a square hole will make a mess.... I suggest drilling a 1/2 hole and file the rest to square. It will take about 5 min... Square tube if you don't seal the top rain will soon fill the tube and rust from the inside... If you try to twist 1/8 square tube it again will make a bigger mess.... You must collapse the center and controll the heat at the point you hold it... Enclosed a flick of twisted tube over the top gothic door pull... I hope this helps.. Issues twisting it were what I hoped to discover with a test piece. I can be pretty poor at writing out my thoughts, so I don't blame you for misunderstanding the other issues. I was going to weld in a portion of 1 inch solid (which looking back at my post, I didn't specify, whoops!) with the hole punched in. Same MO on the top of the "staff", a piece of 1 inch solid square with a decoration at the top, welded to the tube. I'll look into it some more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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