Tbayalistair Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 I am looking at a #150 Sheffield Anvil for $225. It's advertised as between 1854-1875 hand forged in Sheffield. Appears to be stamped "Sheffield" Damage to the face that could easily be repaired. The face looks stepped and quite ugly. The forging is rough. The stamping looks like it was done recently. Is this a "Vulcan works" anvil from the 19th century? Is this a paperweight, stamped to look old? My head seems to be telling me to run.. Any advice (ie.. Hold out for a beauty) Price is certainly an object, and here in Toronto, under $2/lb is tough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulKrzysz Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 Have him send you pics of the face from a top view and a even side view to asses to sway and other damage. You will have to access the costs to fix that face properly with hard facing rods, even if you have a arc welder and are doing it yourself. My father is a Contractor in the GTA and a welder charges as a absolute minimum $60/hr. If you are planning on having someone else weld it count that in. The anvil itself is tool steel on wrought iron, and the face can still be loose around the area where the large piece came off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustyanchor Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 Looks like the top plate has seen better days, I think I would take a pass unless you are desperate and the price comes way down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven K. Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 We have a Sheffield Vulcan at the Peleg Fields Shop in The Farmers' Museum, Cooperstown. It is shown in our blog: http://ruralblacksmith.blogspot.com/2011/02/old-anvils.html Ours is an early transitional anvil. Hand forged and not as chunky as an early Mousehole anvil, but not as streamlined as a Peter Wright London pattern. Since it is an early anvil we only use it for light work. Ours is around 120-130lbs. -Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 It's a "real" anvil but in poor condition. That missing face is like buying a car with an engine that threw a rod. Not an easy fast or cheap fix. However it is fixable if you want to put the time and effort into it---read up on the Robb Gunter method of anvil repair; there's more to it than just burning some rod on it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tbayalistair Posted February 5, 2013 Author Share Posted February 5, 2013 Thanks.. I'm passing on the anvil. I'm good at visual inspection. I feel a bit embarrassed suggesting a ball bearing rebound test.. But hey.. It's my money right? My follow up question.. And I'll be sure to read the huge wealth of info online.. What are the easiest and best way(s) to identify a good anvil from a bad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 I do not buy a car before I test drive it, I will not buy an anvil if I cant see how it works either. I will bounce something on it and maybe even scrape off paint if it has any to check for welds or Bondo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip in china Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 What is your price range? What work would you want to do on it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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