Gundog48 Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 I've seen a finish on many products here that have a very 'steely' appearance, and was wondering how to achieve it. It's not the bluey colour that you get after it comes off the forge, but it is somewhere between black and silver. Any idea how to achieve this? I'm thinking a quench in vegetable oil or maybe some form of etching. The attatched photo is sort of what I mean, but this is a more polished example. First of all, how do I get a blackened finish? And second, how do I get a more metallic one like the one pictured. I like how it looks refined and finished, but also definitely looks forged and rustic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmccustomknives Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 Have you tried a wire brush? I usually get the best finish using one on my bench grinder (wear glasses and shield). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 Emery cloth and plenty of elbow grease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willway Forge Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 I tumble in Ceramic media (home built tumbler, Harbor Frt media), then wire brush to get a clean piece. Then heat the item till hot to the touch and apply wax. Or I leave it cool and apply Rustoleum's Matte Clear finish. The rust protection in Rustoleums products add a touch of blackening to low spots and leave highlights with that "Steely" look. To blacken your pieces, heat to about 500ºF then quench in motor oil, a nice black finish will result. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gundog48 Posted October 6, 2012 Author Share Posted October 6, 2012 Ahh, abrasives, I can understand that. I like to avoid them, especially grinders, when I can because they look too clean and artificial or leave grind marks unless you bring them to a polish, what sort of grit? Thanks Willway for the advice on different finishes and quenchants, I remember hearing about motor oil, although I'm a little apprehensive after what my father gave me telling me it was 'normal motor oil' turned out to be synthetic brake fluid, still haven't got rid of the smell! What sort of wax is this? I'll check out the Rustolem products, I think we do get them in the UK! This is invaluable, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenbeast Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 if you want the finish in the photo you just need to wire-wheel the scale off, job done. soak overnight in vinegar to ease the work i believe you will get a blacker look using oil or beeswax, it might be worth cleaner the item first and rehating by a few hundred degrees to apply the oil/wax but i'm now expert on that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don A Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 Second the wire wheel on the bench grinder. But protect your eyes and hold on tight. That's one of the most dangerous tools we use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenbeast Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 i use a 4.5" grinder with wire-wheel, still danerous but i fancy less so that trying to hold the work against bench wheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigCotton89 Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 If you just mean the color I wrap my blades in paper towels soaked in distilled white vinegar for a few hours giving them a forced patina. hopefully this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironsmith Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 after forgeing and cooling down from a lower black heat, take a veg. oil soaked cotton towel and wipe the piece down until it stops burning off the oil. or your happy with the look. the carbon from the cotton towel and the oil from the rag gives a luster and dark color and will protect the piece. (learned from brian brazeal) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearhartironwerks Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 About 5-6 yrs ago, we took a family trip to the other coast and visited my home ...not born there, in the suburbs of Phila. (Ardmore). Claire Yellin had a shop about a mile away, so I stopped in. She was working on projects for clients that her grandfather had fostered years before and were still were interested in keeping the forged linage in their homes. It was interesting that in Claire's shop, they were still doing the 'old ways', ie, no wire wheels as they "leave marks". All finished work was done by hand sanding as her grandfather had done. The clients demanded this look to match the work of the past. It was incredibly admirable as they could have taken some less labor intensive shortcuts, but did not. It was an impressive display of the 'old way' vs modern times. In hindsight, it was a very unusual situation vs modern ironwork. Not many, if any, smiths have the availablity to duplicate Yellin work in a newer environment vs making living. I was in awe that the work that Yellin did, no so much from the artistic standpoint, was still much in demand from folks long after his demise, had decided to continue the linage of his/their ironwork in their homes. I don't know if Claire Yellin is still in business, but I'm totally impressed by the longevity of the continuation of the linage, and many thanks to those homeowners who appreciate great ironwork. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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