george m. Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 Dear All, My first forge, which I still use, was a 22" round Champion (or at least had a Champion blower attached). Cast into the pan of the forge was "clay before using." I figured that meant that that mean to put a layer of fire clay in the forge to protect the pan. I put in a layer that sloped from the edge to the edge of the tuyre iron in the center. I thought the slope would help move the coal towards the fire. It didn't work very well. The clay near the fire bonded with the clinkers and it eventually cracked and disintergated. I took it all out and have used it for the last 30+ years without any clay. I have had to replace the tuyre iron a couple of times as it deteriorated. I have never heard any advice about having to use fire clay when building a forge. It seems to me that the only part of a forge at risk would be the tuyre iron which may be subjected to high heat. I don't think any clay would protect it. Does anyone have information about what "clay before using" really means and have I been "doing it wrong" all these years? Quizically, George M. PS his should probably go on the "It Followed Me home" thread but I just stopped in a junk shop in Idaho Springs, CO (an old mining town about 30 miles west of Denver) and asked about small RR spikes from mine railroads. They did have one but it was pretty rusty. I gave them $1 for it. I would have passed but the "wood grain" rust pattern showed me that it was honest to god wrought iron. This would solidly date it to the 19th century. I haven't decided whether to make something out of it or keep it as an artifact. GM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
divermike Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 Most fire clays have to be fire cured, this means a slow low heat fire for an hour or so to cure it. I clayed in a rivit forge and it worked fine. I used a small can to mold the clay around the tuyere, and it also made a small firepot, left it fairly level and thick, only thinning at the outer edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregDP Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 Since you asked GM, I'll just parrot some info I know I've read around here somewhere.. can't remember the name of the topic :D: The answer isn't really definitive outside of the obvious text. More than one forge manufacture was known to make the suggestion. The two reasons most often assumed: -One to increase the lifespan of thin sheet metal forges. -The second reason, like Divermike mentioned some believe clay was only mentioned so that costumers could be sold a forge without a proper fire pot! :P That is to say they were sold forges with customizable firepots to suit their specific and unique needs, and the customization was dirt cheap. I've heard other tales of people using old thin-sheet pan and rivet forges for years. A couple tuyere's over 30+ years doesn't sound bad at all to me.. I wonder if I'm going to last that long sometimes! But from my comparatively little personal experience: I've found clay (not the fancy "fire" clay) helpful insulating against heat damage. (I've read it can promote rust.) I've used "clay" as in that red stuff you can dig up, dry and sift.. I don't know if it wasn't cured correctly or if it's just not suitable alone but it cracked and crumbled a lot faster than a mix of kitty litter, red clay, water and wood ash. The secret is really hydrating the kitty litter (bentonite clay). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matto Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 For what I know claying your pan was to protect the pan from cracking. Mostly the cast iron pans. It was cast into some pans to protect the company from liability . Most never needed clay it was when someone cooled the pan down to fast or dumped a lot of water on a hot fire. As for your spike it is probable from 1850 or newer sence gold was first found in 1850 in colorado. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregDP Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 A tip with all clayed forges used with coal is to leave a thin layer of ash in the forge, or even apply a layer mixed with very little water. This will help deter clinker from bonding with the clay or metal in some cases. Instead it bongs with the ash. I didn't post this initially because I wanted to figure out why it works or if it had been just a lucky observation. I've been introduced to some new vocabulary that is very interesting: <a href="http://en.wikipedia....>Sintering</a>. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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