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Help with swage block design

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Hmm... there are a lot of features on there.


I wouldn't be worried about them being too close to each other, they are well spaced for cast iron let alone tool steel. I think you have too many near-duplicated features, 13 rounded ones on the long faces... I'd lose five or six of them (four from the half rounds and two from the shallow rounds) - unless you are doing very fine work (approaching jewelling) I really can't see a need for such small gradations in size. I'd also take out two of the triangles.

What to put in instead? Tough, but a half-hexagon is useful as for others... keep thinking. Can you have dishing done economically?

Good decision to remove the rectangle, only one use and it could often be done by a vice.

All in all, pretty good; please keep us posted with your decisions.


I have found swage blocks make great door stops & boat anchors. I would rather make tools to use on the anvil or power hammer. Using a swage block with top tools is a 2 person job. Make a spring swage for the anvil or power hammer & it is a one person job. I know lot's of people love swage blocks but for the most part for me they are a waste.

Dave Huffman


true dat!

Its the complete opposite for us..We have three swage blocks..At least one will get used every single trip to the shop, usually two..I do need to point out that we have several operations with a swage block as part of it..
Lisa does the craft fairs so the artisan block gets used to make spoons, ladles and fire place shovels..Tomahawks and axes are the bread and butter..Now pretty much all of them get drifted and sized over an industrial block..Now we did that for years without a block but the block makes it easier to change hole size proggresively as the eye opens up and you dont get as much deformation. Just handier.When probably 50%-60% of the pieces that leave the shop have to be drifted and sized then well, you can see how much it gets used..

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