Rob Garner Posted July 18, 2015 Author Share Posted July 18, 2015 Update: The good It definitely gets to welding temp. Had a job come in to bend some 1" diameter 303 stainless at 90 degrees. Wasn't sure I could do it with the bender I have so I tested it with some 4140. Cut three pieces to 13" long and put them in the forge then lit it up. Took about 15-20 minutes to bring them to what I call bright orange. When I went to pull the first piece out it was stuck to the mild steel rack that I use to keep the stock off the forge floor. After getting it unstuck and out of the forge I noticed that it was sparking just a little bit, which I believe is one of the ways to tell when steel is hot enough to forge weld. The bad This was the third time the forge has been run for an extended amount of time. It has destroyed (burned through, melted etc.) the stainless insert and the 2600˚ fire brick floor has a good size hole melted about half way through under each burner. The brick is a little over 1" thick. So, do I drop the coin on some higher temp rated bricks or just keep a few of the 2600 on hand and just replace them as needed? Anyway, the job was completed and the customer was more than happy with the pieces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 (edited) Definitely buy the better bricks! I have one golden bullet burner on my main shop forge that will melt the 3,000f hard split fire brick under it. Replace the floor bricks as neccesary but you really need better bricks.Split brick is 1 1/4" thick.Frosty The Lucky. Edited July 18, 2015 by Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Latticino Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 Might want to consider use of a bubble alumina or high alumina ceramic brick (more flux resistant, but very expensive). I have a half brick of same in my forge and it doesn't appear to degrade, but yours gets a bit hotter than mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Garner Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 Thanks for the comments. I just remembered that I have about half a bag of Mizzou castable plus 3000 degree refractory left over from my smelter project (if it's still usable and not a solid chunk). If it is still good I'll just build a form and cast some replacement floor inserts.Stay tuned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hylan Posted September 4, 2018 Share Posted September 4, 2018 Rob, where did you get the design for the plumbing of the gas lines? I'm trying to understand the bypass (or that's what it looks like) and the main valve. Do you have any information on that? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ka-tet Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 I used the design from Hybrid Burners for my bypass. Those Rob's plumbing (and forge in general) is WAY more elegant that what I ended up with. Nice work! http://www.hybridburners.com/pics/idle-full.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris. G Posted April 27, 2019 Share Posted April 27, 2019 (edited) Deleted useless quoted first post containing every photo. Edited April 27, 2019 by Mod30 deleted large quote without any post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted April 27, 2019 Share Posted April 27, 2019 Chris, you might want to edit your post to resize the pictures to 500x375. We have members world wide and a lot of them have to rely on dial up internet or pay for band width and huge pictures eat it up or take forever to load. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 27, 2019 Share Posted April 27, 2019 Maybe just a link, I skipped everything after the first repeated pic. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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