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Featured Replies

Since you have the ability, why not make a die to form the jaw without splitting it?

Phil

Great looking tongs, you just made me realize how much i really need a new set of tongs since my first set i made and first thing i have smithed are starting to hold me back. I really like the curly end ones, next time i think ill try to make something like that but for thinner/narrower stock. Cheers

-TIm M.

Wasn't going to post until I had pictures, but I saw this thread and I have poor impulse control. I started a set of tongs in your style tonight. I don't have a power hammer, so I adjusted the tooling somewhat. Went with 3/8x3/4 stock, and used a butcher to start the drawing out, leaving 1 inch for both the jaw and hinge. I've never used a butcher before, and since I don't always have a second hand around to swing a hammer or hold a tool, I made one for my hardy, which I'm inclined to say works pretty well. My first learning experience was cutting in too far with the butcher, which left a cold shut when I finished the bow section to size. That tong half also has a pretty funny looking jaw, since my hot-cutting alignment was not up to par ;) . The second half came out much better, and I'll probably keep the first one for that pair despite its "challenges", since drawing them by hand is time consuming and I don't want waste it. I'll just use it for smaller stock, in case it's weakened. I keep trying different methods of making tongs, but I think until I get drop-tong welding down, drawing down the reins is going to make any method time consuming. Anways, thanks for the tutorial, I really enjoyed making these!

  • Author

Drop tong was always a bit of a dog and pony thing for me, If I had to do that weld I would reach in with wolf jaw or pickup tongs and pinch weld in the fire, then bring it out and finish the weld on the anvil no dropping of things needed. Pictures yes please!

I experienced the same thing you did with your butcher with this shoulder tool, going in too far. I had initially made one up with stops/kiss blocks on it, which is handier if you are forging from say 3/4 square or round.

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