farmwithhorses Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 I have been researching burners on this site, abana, etc for a about a week now and have decided to go ahead and build one. Originally i was going to go with a t burner because of the simplicity but now I am leaning more towards a zoeller side burner because I like the idea of being able to adjust the length of the burner instead of cutting the mig tip. I also like the idea of the adjustable choke. I have been amazed at how ill equipped all the local hardware and box stores have been! I will be going to a plumbing supply place later this week. My question is are all brass ball valves the same? Can I use the ones in the plumbing section at the box store, or is there a rating or a stamp for gas I should be looking for? Also, Is there a certain type of gauge I need for propane, or will a regular gauge with a 0-60 psi scale work? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Welcome farmw/horses! If you do use a Ball Valve, get one rated for all gasses. The ones I use have WGS casted into the valve body. If my memory is worth half a xxxx, WGS stands for Water, Gas, Steam. I'd stick with the mig tip. For the price they can't be beat and they can be up or down sized easily. As far as regulators- same thing as valve, just be sure it is rated for your intended use. I built a few of those burners several years ago and ended up buying all the pipe and mig tip taps and dies so I could size everything to my liking... Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvmikeray Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Hey farmwithhorses where are you located? With the burner there are tons of options, but I agree with the MIG tip approach. If you are doing it to save money, just buy the T-rex - http://www.hybridburners.com/ (or a finished burner) and as another member here said - Get busy earning the money back. But, If your building this is the book to read.http://www.amazon.com/Gas-Burners-Forges-Furnaces-Kilns/dp/1879535203/ref=pd_sim_b_3 I used this book and research to build a burner design that I like. I am still developing it now, but it does take time and I have thought a few times I should have just bought one !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 The gauge has to be rated for use with propane otherwise the propane can eat the seals and leak. I get propane fittings from my local propane dealer. Having a good working relationship with them saves money over the long term---they give me O rings for the soft nosed fittings I have, I can drop off my tanks and come back later to pay and pick them up, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
farmwithhorses Posted February 1, 2012 Author Share Posted February 1, 2012 I am planning to use the mig tip. I was under the impression that with the zoeller design I used the mig tips but did not have to cut the actual tip because because the length of the burners was adjustable inside the the larger pipe. With the t burner the location of the mig tip is fixed inside the larger pipe and the tip must be cut to make adjustments. I am making it to save money, but mostly because I already had most of the parts lying around. I only need the gauge, (2) 1/4" ball valves and the mig tap at this point. The typical brass ball valves at the box store that I usually buy for water say WOG. They have other valves they are advertising as for gas (shorter handle with out the rubber grip) but the smallest they have is 1/2". I am thinking of getting needle valves for greater control. I'm not planning on making it to make money anytime soon. All though its great if it happens. I am planning on using it around the farm. I work with draft horses and there is a metal piece on the harness called the hames. It fits in a groove in the collar. This is how all the weight is transferred from a push action by the horse to a pull action on the implement. It is important that this piece fits in the groove well. One of mine fits poor so this will be one of my first projects. I don't have a lot of free time but I am hoping it will eventually lead to making some of our own tools, hinges, latches, hooks, etc, as well as knifemaking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 If you have an old set of O/A torches you can use the valve from the fuel side. Thats what I have done in the past. The pictures show the newer set up using valves I had laying around and ball valves. Not the connection to the fuel line, it is reverse thread as fuel lines should be. Those fitting can be bought at your gas supplier or taken from an old set of torches. When you get the piece of 1/4" pipe to use with the mig tip, cut one threaded end off and swage it down a bit to fit the mig tip. I tried to solder it once and the heat from the burner came back up the pipe and melted the solder after I turned off the gas. I think you will find that you use the regulator for flame control more than the valve.... At least I have found that to be the case. Good Luck, Have fun and be safe! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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