Just picked this up on Saturday & can't wait to get this in the shop, will have to disassemble it some as I don't have a forklift like the guy I bought it from.

That's a keeper...Looks like whoever owned it had respect for machinery, the table even looks it hasn't been bunged up....

Thanks, I am sure glad this one came home with me & my wife actually did the negotiating with the guy.
The power down feed has 4 settings .003, .005, .007 & .010, how do you determine which rate of feed for drill size and does the material you are drilling factor in?

Got it moved in and have started the reassembly process, just in time also, was about 58 degrees yesterday & today in the high teens.

Machinery feeds are easily checked in the Machineries Manuel. ANY version will have tables of info, giving feeds versus speeds for different materials. These green bound books are an absolute wealth of good info that can be banked on.
The older versions of the "Green Bible as the Machineries Manual is oftem know are often available pretty cheap. My Dad found my 1942 version for $1.00 at a yardsale about 25 years ago.

The feeds refer to how far the tool advances per revolution. IE no matter the rpm, the drill bit will advance 0.003" per revolution if set to the .003 feed. Power feed is a joy when used correctly, as the drill advances evenly, and at near optium rate. A well sharped drill, properly lubed/cooled and on power feed will shoot a big drill faster than you would ever dream.

On the other hand, something to remember is that with good lube/coolant, a properly sharped drill in something ductile like plain steel plate will tend to make one long even corkscrew shaving per flute, and these start to whip as they get long. They are also razor sharp, and if drilling at near max feed may be blue from the heat. NEVER touch one of these with you hand, even gloved, as they can cut wight through a leather glove. ESPECIALLY be careful when the shaving is whipping and the drill turning.

Make a chip hook. this is a simple 1/4" rod with a hook on one end, and a wood handle on the other of reasonable lenght, say 24". These give you a way to pull the shavings safely. Another way is to simply interupt the feed every time the shaving gets to a lenght that you want. This does require an easy to start/stop feed.

Looks like a real find, enjoy.

Billingstwo, That is a beauty. Looks pretty clean, table not all drilled up. I assume that this machine uses MT shanked drill bits. If so what size taper. I may have a cuple in the scrap bin.

Thanks for the info on power down feed and thanks for the compliments, this thing is realy in great shape for it's age. This machine takes a #4 MT and any help with drill bits would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the info on power down feed and thanks for the compliments, this thing is realy in great shape for it's age. This machine takes a #4 MT and any help with drill bits would be greatly appreciated.

I finally made it back to my old shop for another load of machines & materials . I found only one MT shank drill bit in my scrap tool steel bin. Unfortunately the large end of the taper measures 1.76" Diameter, indicating a No. 5 MT. The drill is 1 5/8" diameter, Mfg. by National, and is high speed steel. At one time I had a bunch of MT drill bits that I purchased for tool steel stock. Looks like this is the last remaining one. Seems a shame to cut it up for material but that seems to be it's coming fate unless someone wants to pony up postage for it. BTW the bit will need to be reground If used.

That is a nice machine, but just one thing-it'd look better in my shop :lol: . You should be able to find a drill chuck with that taper. Check Enco, Msc, Mcmaster Carr, or one of those types of places. Cheaper than trying to find/buy drill bits with a #4 taper.

That is a nice machine, but just one thing-it'd look better in my shop :lol: . You should be able to find a drill chuck with that taper. Check Enco, Msc, Mcmaster Carr, or one of those types of places. Cheaper than trying to find/buy drill bits with a #4 taper.

Yes, a nice Jacobs chuck will be an essential part of the kit. However If large diameter holes are to be drilled, the tapered drill bits are keyed into the base of the taper to prevent bit rotation in the taper under load. If large holes are to be drilled a selection of the larger keyed tapered bits are the way to go. Without them the potential of the drill press will be hard to achieve. Using the Jacobs chuck for smaller holes is the way to go, but they do have their limits.

Thanks for the advice, I have a few old jacobs chucks and will just use one of them until I can find a great deal on some taper bits.

Nice find and good for another generation of use.

That is a good looking drill ,I love those step pulley's

Nice looking drill! I sure wish there was more info on the Canedy otto's, I have it's little brother(18 inch benchtop). Thanks for sharing.

My drill press is a clausing 15" floor model that I fitted with a VFD. The VFD allows the spindle speed to be reduced to the point that you can count spindle revolutions. The lower spindle speed allows me to use hole saws to drill holes up to 2 1/2" to 3" . Using a good sharp hole saw I have cut holes through 1" plate by drilling the saw center guide hole through the plate and then cutting 1/2 way through from both sides. This is not a method that you would want to use for production but for an occasional hole it works. It is, however, time consuming.

It occurred to me that your Canedy Otto might have a spindle speed low enough to use this method . However if you do try this be sure that the work piece is well secured .

Thanks for the tip, I will have to try the hole saw idea, my drill press will go down to 68 rpm just as is but I have given a VFD some thought.