moad Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 Just bought the JF#1 burner and wondered if anyone had heard about them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 Maybe post a picture to stir more comments... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 http://www.thermalartist.com/burners/jf this? Looks pretty. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moad Posted December 24, 2011 Author Share Posted December 24, 2011 Yes Phil, that is it. I have looked at many and chose this one. I hope it is the right choice? I am in the Oilfield here in Oklahoma and am thinking of cutting off 12 or so inches of 9 5/8" heavy wall casing and filling the inside with the brick and insulation and cutting a hole in the top for the JF#1. Then building sides to fit the casing and then hopefully I will have heat? jbm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 I used black stove pipe and 2 inches of ceramic wool insulation. My single burner (3/4 inch home made) forge has a cavity about 5x5x9 inches. I WISH I made a means that the side could open for wide items or bending (being sheet metal it is easy to alter if I ever get a "round tuit" but I have solid fuel too) I have done a cable weld once in this forge, and have melted coil spring. Using hard or soft brick for doors works well, as does using sheet metal lined with ceramic wool. Using ceramic wool insulation for the body works well. Using a high temperature material such as a brick for the floor, so it is replaceable, also is helpful. My choice of sheet metal was an expedient, and is plenty durable. I can also fasten with sheet metal screws or steel pop rivets. Heavier materials can be welded to, and many forge bodies have been from spent freon, helium, and propane tanks, cleaned well, and welded to. I recommend a ball valve at the forge to make lighting easy (set pressure, insert igniter, turn gas on slowly) I use a propane plumber's torch as my igniter, and find that I have no unexpected drama lighting my forge, just hisssWOOOSH! Hope this helps, I can't comment on your shell choice because I am not familiar with it. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 27, 2011 Share Posted December 27, 2011 The shell of the forge is just to hold the refractory---I know one pro who needed a big forge for a job and just took tha kaowool and used a couple of pieces of binder wire to hold it into a circle and stuck a burner into that. I have two propane forges one has a thin shell---grain auger tubing, the other has a heavy shell---an old O2 bottle and boy is the first one easier to move around the shop and load/unload for demos! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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